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Zennie

Psycho-Pack A Sabre?

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How many of y'all do this? And how have the openings been (both in terms of reliability & softness)?
I know there's a school that says only pack the way the manufacturer recommends (PD is in the pro-pack camp), but if it doesn't cause any reliability issues, I don't see why I shouldn't try it.
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Blue Skies!
Zennie

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Hi Zennie,
Personally I Wolmari-Pack my Sabre 170 - don't roll the nose at all, slider quartered & well forward, tail rolled LOTS.
With the Wolmari-Pack I get the air out & canopy bagged fast. It gives me nice smooth openings (not the "succession of bangs) & on heading.
Try it.
Mike D10270.

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I have put around 100 jumps on my sabre 150 and most of those have been psycho-packed. My openings are quick but not at all hard. I do not roll the nose either. I have had one slammer, however I was still in a track when I threw my p/c, so it is hard to blame my sabre. I have heard stories about the sabre being vicious, but if you treat her right you should have nothing to worry about.

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I saw Scott Miller put on a packing class down in Florida. He is the test jumper from PD and he had a few interesting tricks. It was a combo of the Wolmari pack and the ProPack. One of the things that he said was not to push the nose into the center because that is one of the causes of a line over. He also said that it doesnt make a huge difference to roll the nose, but if you are going to roll it...roll 3 or 4 cells, depending on a 7 or 9 cell cell canopy, from one side in and then the other side in. The interesting thing that I had never seen before which is similar to the Wolmari is to roll over, not under when you have the canopy flattened on the ground. He did however roll the topskin only back underneath the canopy. I had never seen that before either. He was full of information! I have been using his style since...seems fine to me!
-Slut
"I'll jump anything!"

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I saw Scott Miller put on a packing class down in Florida. He is the test jumper from PD and he had a few interesting tricks. It was a combo of the Wolmari pack and the ProPack. One of the things that he said was not to push the nose into the center because that is one of the causes of a line over. He also said that it doesnt make a huge difference to roll the nose, but if you are going to roll it...roll 3 or 4 cells, depending on a 7 or 9 cell cell canopy, from one side in and then the other side in. The interesting thing that I had never seen before which is similar to the Wolmari is to roll over, not under when you have the canopy flattened on the ground. He did however roll the topskin only back underneath the canopy. I had never seen that before either. He was full of information! I have been using his style since...seems fine to me! I jump Sabres. About 100 packjobs prior and 20 packjobs since I have changed my packing method and they all open great...havent got whacked yet. knock...knock...I havent tried psycho packing yet. I have only seen a few people that subscribe to this method. I havent had the time to learn it properly so I dont particularly want to comment on it.
-Slut
"I'll jump anything!"

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I jump a Silhouette 210 loaded at about 1.2. I am 225 nekkid, and I estimate my exit weight at about 250. I have NEVER had a hard opening on the Silhouette (over 450 jumps). I have flat packed forever, but just recently implemented a hybrid of Billy Weber's "Pack-Like-A-Pro" P.R.O. pack and Beezy Shaw's "Psycho Pack." I also put a few jumps on a Stiletto 190 this winter with the same pack job. I love that pack job for everything (except maybe huge student canopies or tandem canopies when you don't have access to a hook). The best part about it is that once you turn the flaked canopy around and lay it down, you can treat your nose however you like without having to handle it so gingerly. It's actually laying on the floor right in front of you, so you can spread the nose out, roll it, or whatever.
Respectfully,
SP

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I've put over 60 jumps on my Sabre 210 loaded at just under 1.3:1 with it psycho-packed. Because of the size of the canopy it was the easiest way for me to pack it and it has really tamed the canopy and made the openings more consistent than those that were PRO-packed.
If you're going to try it have your rigger put a 4" to 6" bridle-extension on the top attachment point of your canopy.

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