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PhreeZone 20
My father picked up a used Bushmaster for cheap enough that it wasn't even worth the time to research all the needed parts to build an AR15. Hit up a local gun show and a guy had a couple of AR's were going for little more then a bolt action 30-06 a few years back. Now the reciever for the Thompson that we have all the other parts for already... that project is still underway and should be a blast to play around with once its done. 
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery
Parachutemanuals.com
And tomorrow is a mystery
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mnealtx 0
Why would you want a rifle that shits where it eats? 
A good .243 or .270 would be at least as accurate and not have the neighbors calling the BAT-boys every time you leave the house with it...
A good .243 or .270 would be at least as accurate and not have the neighbors calling the BAT-boys every time you leave the house with it...
Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706
MattM 0
I am building one as well. So far... all I have is the upper. Slow slow project.
Matt
Matt
micro 0
QuoteWhy would you want a rifle that shits where it eats?
A good .243 or .270 would be at least as accurate and not have the neighbors calling the BAT-boys every time you leave the house with it...
LOL!!! See, I don't HAVE many neighbors... just my driveway alone is .3 miles long and you can barely see my house from the road for all the trees and the corn fields. The closest house to mine is about 1 mile away.
And out here in the country, people aren't too keen on calling the BAT-boys about much of anything. I miss Lee.
And JP.
And Chris. And...
micro 0
QuoteI am building one as well. So far... all I have is the upper. Slow slow project.
What kind of upper do you have?
I miss Lee.
And JP.
And Chris. And...
kbordson 8
Some questions to consider....
Are you looking to put a scope on it or are you wanting it to be service rifle legal for CMP matches?
How much money are you wanting to play with?
What do you consider "accurate"?
Then I'll get back to you with some recommendations.
Karen
Are you looking to put a scope on it or are you wanting it to be service rifle legal for CMP matches?
How much money are you wanting to play with?
What do you consider "accurate"?
Then I'll get back to you with some recommendations.
Karen
micro 0
QuoteSome questions to consider....
Are you looking to put a scope on it or are you wanting it to be service rifle legal for CMP matches?
How much money are you wanting to play with?
What do you consider "accurate"?
Then I'll get back to you with some recommendations.
Karen
I plan on having a flattop upper for mounting either an EOTech Holosight or an Aimpoint Comp sight, but will have the option of popping those off and putting on a long range scope if need be.
Money: I think I can get a very decent build w/ quality pieces, ala Rock River Arms or Stag for b/t $800-1000. The more inexpensive the better in the build stage so the mount components (like the EOTech and Aimpoint and lights) can be more high end. But I won't buy no-name cheap ass stuff either.
Accuracy: not going to do matches... so going w/ chrome lined barrel. want longevity over uber accuracy.
I miss Lee.
And JP.
And Chris. And...
QuoteSome questions to consider....
Are you looking to put a scope on it or are you wanting it to be service rifle legal for CMP matches?
How much money are you wanting to play with?
What do you consider "accurate"?
Then I'll get back to you with some recommendations.
Karen
kbordson 8
OK.
Here's some thoughts... but remember, I'm just a chick on the internet giving out MY opinion. (and some insight from my husband too).
I'm going to assume that you want a 1moa gun (cuz there would be no point in a flat top and scope if all you want is a 3moa gun)
Upper/Lower - Rock river is good, or Bushmaster if you can get one.
Trigger: 2 stage match - First recommendation is Chip McCormick. Next Armalite. Avoid Jard and JP. No Jewell triggers - way too tweeky.
Barrel - you can get a 20inch stainless steel heavy bbl from Wilson Barrels (not Wilson Combat) for about $120 or so. (I would love to recommend Rock cuz DAMN, he can cut barrels, but the .223 is buttoned and you were looking at cost as an issue)
You should free float the barrel. I would (of course) recommend a Badger Ordnance handguard, but those are difficult to get right now because of some changes in manufacturing. It might be easier, quicker and cheaper to use Troy Industries or Knight Manufacturing.
Front site? Your answer should be "no." And you should put that money into better glass or better training. Gas Block/manifold is the better answer.
Glass/sights - Long range scopes don't sit well on the AR15, but if you feel you must you might find that you need to move the scope forward to allow you to cheek up properly and comfortably. For that you might need a riser rail (about $90). The best (not bragging, just stating fact) mounts and rings are Badger - but you pay more for the quality. Glass - cost and desire are BIG players here. My firm recommendations is the Schmidt and Bender, but you'ld be looking at the cheapest being about $1200-$1300. Next a Mark4, but even then it would be about 1k. A reasonable choice might be the Vari X3 (runs about $800). Aimpoint would be a bit above the EOTech on that class, cuz it would be better if there was a power failure or some other problem on the sight.
Pistol grip - Magpul. Stock - Voltor or Magpul
Hope it helps and have fun putting it together.
Here's some thoughts... but remember, I'm just a chick on the internet giving out MY opinion. (and some insight from my husband too).
I'm going to assume that you want a 1moa gun (cuz there would be no point in a flat top and scope if all you want is a 3moa gun)
Upper/Lower - Rock river is good, or Bushmaster if you can get one.
Trigger: 2 stage match - First recommendation is Chip McCormick. Next Armalite. Avoid Jard and JP. No Jewell triggers - way too tweeky.
Barrel - you can get a 20inch stainless steel heavy bbl from Wilson Barrels (not Wilson Combat) for about $120 or so. (I would love to recommend Rock cuz DAMN, he can cut barrels, but the .223 is buttoned and you were looking at cost as an issue)
You should free float the barrel. I would (of course) recommend a Badger Ordnance handguard, but those are difficult to get right now because of some changes in manufacturing. It might be easier, quicker and cheaper to use Troy Industries or Knight Manufacturing.
Front site? Your answer should be "no." And you should put that money into better glass or better training. Gas Block/manifold is the better answer.
Glass/sights - Long range scopes don't sit well on the AR15, but if you feel you must you might find that you need to move the scope forward to allow you to cheek up properly and comfortably. For that you might need a riser rail (about $90). The best (not bragging, just stating fact) mounts and rings are Badger - but you pay more for the quality. Glass - cost and desire are BIG players here. My firm recommendations is the Schmidt and Bender, but you'ld be looking at the cheapest being about $1200-$1300. Next a Mark4, but even then it would be about 1k. A reasonable choice might be the Vari X3 (runs about $800). Aimpoint would be a bit above the EOTech on that class, cuz it would be better if there was a power failure or some other problem on the sight.
Pistol grip - Magpul. Stock - Voltor or Magpul
Hope it helps and have fun putting it together.
So, what does that all work out cost wise? $5k??? 
We are all engines of karma
micro 0
QuoteOK.
Here's some thoughts... but remember, I'm just a chick on the internet giving out MY opinion. (and some insight from my husband too).
I'm going to assume that you want a 1moa gun YES (cuz there would be no point in a flat top and scope if all you want is a 3moa gun)
Upper/Lower - Rock river is good, or Bushmaster if you can get one.
Trigger: 2 stage match - First recommendation is Chip McCormick (I used Chip McC in my 1911, like 'em). Next Armalite. Avoid Jard and JP. No Jewell triggers - way too tweeky.
Barrel - you can get a 20inch stainless steel heavy bbl from Wilson Barrels (not Wilson Combat yep, got them confused at first! ) for about $120 or so. (I would love to recommend Rock cuz DAMN, he can cut barrels, but the .223 is buttoned and you were looking at cost as an issue)
You should free float the barrel definitely. I would (of course) recommend a Badger Ordnance handguard, but those are difficult to get right now because of some changes in manufacturing. It might be easier, quicker and cheaper to use Troy Industries or LaRue Tactical or SureFire or Knight Manufacturing or Daniel Defense, who knows. .
Front site? Your answer should be "no." And you should put that money into better glass or better training. Gas Block/manifold is the better answer.
Glass/sights - Long range scopes don't sit well on the AR15, but if you feel you must you might find that you need to move the scope forward to allow you to cheek up properly and comfortably. For that you might need a riser rail (about $90). The best (not bragging, just stating fact) mounts and rings are Badger - but you pay more for the quality. Glass - cost and desire are BIG players here. My firm recommendations is the Schmidt and Bender, but you'ld be looking at the cheapest being about $1200-$1300. Next a Mark4, but even then it would be about 1k. A reasonable choice might be the Vari X3 (runs about $800). Aimpoint would be a bit above the EOTech on that class, cuz it would be better if there was a power failure or some other problem on the sight.
Pistol grip - Magpul (the MIAD) . Stock - Vltor (the repositional one-I really like Vltor's stuff-their new billet upper is kinda unique looking too... gettin mixed reviews... pretty blocky looking) or Magpul
Hope it helps and have fun putting it together.
You so rock... here's a few items I already have on my wish list that you mentioned... I bolded them in your msg...
Thanks for the post.
I miss Lee.
And JP.
And Chris. And...
kbordson 8
QuoteSo, what does that all work out cost wise? $5k???
Not so much. Without glass or mounts - probably $900 to 1k. - don't all girlfriends/wives allow that kind of funding for toys?
If you were going to just buy an AR-15 and wanted something with 1MOA that was fun to shoot, reliable and had a bit of wiz-bang, who would you buy? I have my opinion, but you and your hubby are lightyears ahead of me when it comes to AR-15s.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."
steve1 5
I'd love to own a m-16 or AR-15 just for fun.
For coyotes my preference has always been an accurate bolt action rifle with a good quality scope. But I imagine an AR-15 would work fine if it was accurate enough.
Underneath all that fur coyotes aren't very big. At longer ranges they can be tough to hit. I use a very accurate rifle and I don't sight it in to shoot too high. I sight my big game rifles in at almost three inches high at 100 yards. That would be almost 4inches high at 200 yards. I've missed coyotes with those same rifles because I forgot about how high the midrange trajectory was and shot over them. Two inches high at a 100, or a little less than that, would have worked better.
Free floating the barrel will improve accuracy on most rifles. I have a couple of bolt action rifles that have long fairly thin barrels. Free-floating those barrels actually made the accuracy worst. You need to test all this out at the range. On those rifles I left them floated but put a shim under the forend. You can experiment with how thick a shim to use. I can now drive tacks with both those rifles (if I use the right load).
I like a nice, light, crisp trigger. Have a good gunsmith do this for you. I used to adjust my own triggers and have had problems. One rifle almost ruined a hunting trip. Every time I closed the bolt the firing pin would slip. Luckily I had another rifle to use. Having too light a trigger can be dangerous also.
A good quality scope isn't cheap. I really like Leupold II scopes. There are better scopes out there, but they all cost big bucks. And don't skimp on good mounts. Little things can make a big difference in the size of your groups.
As far as building a rifle from parts, I don't really know much about that. I'm wondering why a person would do that. Is it cheaper somehow than buying a finished weapon? I can see how it might be fun to do as long as all the parts were compatible. You could end up with exactly the weapon you wanted if you were knowledgable enough to do it.. I know there are a lot of options available. At any rate, good luck with you project.....Steve1
For coyotes my preference has always been an accurate bolt action rifle with a good quality scope. But I imagine an AR-15 would work fine if it was accurate enough.
Underneath all that fur coyotes aren't very big. At longer ranges they can be tough to hit. I use a very accurate rifle and I don't sight it in to shoot too high. I sight my big game rifles in at almost three inches high at 100 yards. That would be almost 4inches high at 200 yards. I've missed coyotes with those same rifles because I forgot about how high the midrange trajectory was and shot over them. Two inches high at a 100, or a little less than that, would have worked better.
Free floating the barrel will improve accuracy on most rifles. I have a couple of bolt action rifles that have long fairly thin barrels. Free-floating those barrels actually made the accuracy worst. You need to test all this out at the range. On those rifles I left them floated but put a shim under the forend. You can experiment with how thick a shim to use. I can now drive tacks with both those rifles (if I use the right load).
I like a nice, light, crisp trigger. Have a good gunsmith do this for you. I used to adjust my own triggers and have had problems. One rifle almost ruined a hunting trip. Every time I closed the bolt the firing pin would slip. Luckily I had another rifle to use. Having too light a trigger can be dangerous also.
A good quality scope isn't cheap. I really like Leupold II scopes. There are better scopes out there, but they all cost big bucks. And don't skimp on good mounts. Little things can make a big difference in the size of your groups.
As far as building a rifle from parts, I don't really know much about that. I'm wondering why a person would do that. Is it cheaper somehow than buying a finished weapon? I can see how it might be fun to do as long as all the parts were compatible. You could end up with exactly the weapon you wanted if you were knowledgable enough to do it.. I know there are a lot of options available. At any rate, good luck with you project.....Steve1
kbordson 8
QuoteIf you were going to just buy an AR-15 and wanted something with 1MOA that was fun to shoot, reliable and had a bit of wiz-bang, who would you buy? I have my opinion, but you and your hubby are lightyears ahead of me when it comes to AR-15s.
What would we be using it for? Kinda like going to Lowes and saying "I wanna buy a tool." But not telling the sales person what you're building or whether you have a specific brand loyalty or what cost range....
If we were going to buy (not build) another AR15 .... just a minute.... *runs off to look in the toy room and think for a bit* .... The next one might a flat top from Knights, 16in bbl. Spend maybe $1500-1800 on the gun. with a Schmidt and Bender for long range or an Elcan Specter DR (not the infra red one) for 100-300 meters.
QuoteWhat would we be using it for?
Shooting stuff and having a fun toy. Not a true defense weapon since its not practical for urban home defense. Can't use it professionally due to policy about privately owned weapons, but it would be fun to use it for fun and maybe get into some low-end comp shooting with it.
I've drooled over Bushmaster and RockRiver stuff for a couple of years now, seems like decent choices to me, but like I said, I don't know AR-15s very well. Not like I know pistols.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."
Keep us updated with how it goes. I've done some reading on the subject and I have shot a lot of .223, but I don't know much about the custom world of the AR-15. When you're done you're going to have to build a 1911 next.
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