Gun owners, some questions.

[diablopilot 2]

When looking at a used firearm (Pistol) how does one determine quality?

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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

[craddock 0]

Unsure if you really mean quality or how to determine the condition. The latter is more apt to change on a used firearm.

That spot isn't bad at all, the winds were strong and that was the issue! It was just on the downwind side.

[diablopilot 2]

Condition.

I was in a Pawn Shop yesterday and saw a Kimber Eclipse Pro II for a pretty danm good price, and while I probably won't pick it up for a lack of "play" money right now, I started wondering, how can I ensure I'm not getting a peice of crap? What kind of things does one look for?

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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

[ExAFO 0]

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When looking at a used firearm (Pistol) how does one determine quality?

-Quality (level of materials used/craftsmanship): Reputation of manufacturer

-Value (what it's worth for sale/purchase): Gunsmith's appraisal

Illinois needs a CCW Law. NOW.

[EricTheRed 0]

Wear mostly.

It's generally not to tough to tell how much a firearm has been used or abused.
For a reference point, I'd sugest going to a gun shop and checking out a new model of the same weapon if possible. Don't be afraid to ask the dealer to show you how to disassemble and clean the gun. You can then compare to the used model.
If it's worn out, there will be excess play, and generally visible wear on the moving parts.
It's nice to have a friend that has some experiance to show you exactly what to look for. A good dealer (not a pawn shop) will generally be happy to help to educate you if you stop in when they aren't too busy.
Just like skydivers, gun nuts are usually all too willing to talk about their sport.

illegible usually

[craddock 0]

Kimber makes a fine weapon but they are not without their problems. I will probably get flamed for this but oh well.

I would have a very hard time buying the model you are looking at from a pawn shop if it is the external extractor model. The reason is that Kimber has had a fair amount of problems with their external extractor and FTE(failure to extract). The problem is much more pronounced on the compact models as the extractor timing becomes more of an issue. I shoot with several people that have had various issues with the Kimber EE. Some people have tried dealing with Kimber repeatetly until they finally replaced the slide with an IE model. Kimber has switched to an internal extractor late in 05 on what they call the 06 models. There will be people respond to this pissed that I dare say anything bad about their Kimber because they have not had any problems. Like I said they make a fine gun, in fact a excellent firearm for the money. They are a great value. Buying a used 4" EE model is taking a risk however. How much are they asking for it? If the price is right......
Again if you get a good one they are a great weapon for the money. I myself shoot a Springfield Operator for a 1911. They will feed anything but you probably not find one as cheap as a used Eclipse Pro II. Are you looking for something for CCW in the future?

That spot isn't bad at all, the winds were strong and that was the issue! It was just on the downwind side.

[mnealtx 0]

Here's some basic checks you may wish to do before buying a used pistol.

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[JohnRich 4]

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When looking at a used firearm (Pistol) how does one determine quality?

Here's a couple of points I can think of off the top of my head.

You want a "milled" frame rather than a "cast" frame. That means that it is machined from a solid block of steel, usually hammer-forged to compress the steel and make it more dense. Castings are when molten steel is poured into a mold, and this leaves a telltale seam mark where the two halves of the mold fit together. Likewise, "stamped" parts are considered cheap and fragile, as they are just stamped out of sheet metal.

If you're getting one of the new guns with polymer parts, be aware that while they may be more lightweight, they are also less sturdy than old-fashioned heavy steel. If it's going to be shot little and carried a lot, then that can be good. But if it's going to be shot a lot, then you'll wear out parts quickly.

The barrel is what is most likely to be worn. But those are relatively cheap to replace. Peer down inside, and you should see a mirror finish, with no pitting or rust, assuming it's been cleaned. Ask for a "bore light" to help - it's a small penlight that you use to shine a light in the barrel at one end, while looking down the other end. This will aid in inspection.

I prefer stainless steel, for it's ability to resist rust, but you pay more for it. Blued steel will rust much more easily, just from sitting around.

And when you're looking at something particular, you can always search the internet to find tons of opinions. Do your research.

[ViperPilot 0]

When checking the barrel w/ your bore light, flashlight, whatever, also check the lands and grooves...meaning how good does the rifling look. Are the grooves prominent and rust free or do they look worn down? Check for cracks anywhere, how much play are in the moving parts...do they feel loose? Is the gun overall clean or does it look like it's been sitting under the work bench in the garage for a couple years? Whatever you do, make sure you know how to field strip the gun so you can give a good inspection and not judge it strictly from the "outside."

[JohnRich 4]

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how much play are in the moving parts...do they feel loose?

Just a comment on that one.

With pistols, for example, there is a design dilemma between reliability and accuracy. For accuracy, you need closely mated parts with tight tolerances. However, this also means that dirt can cause malfunctions easier. For reliability, like WWII military Colt Model 1911 .45's, the parts were intentionally made with a loost fit, so they could be dropped in the dirt and still operate, no matter what. For soldiers, handgun reliability can be more important than accuracy. You can shake those things sideways and they rattle, but they'll always shoot.

So loose fit doesn't necessarily mean poor quality.

It depends upon whether you value reliability or accuracy more. For a self-defense gun, likely to be used in close quarters where serious accuracy isn't that important, reliability is #1 with me. But I also have a "target" handgun with tight tolerances for casual and accurate target shooting.