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ramon

anyone install a turbo on a stock engine?

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I know, weird post, but.

Anyone every turbocharge a non turbo car? I have ordered an aftermarket kit for my car and was curious.



Saw a page a while ago about somebody who put one on a minivan. Don't remember where it was, but remembered that fuel delivery was a problem past some insane amount of boost

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Hook high, flare on time

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be sure that the engine ( in it's present condition ) can take the compression.
A K&N air filter is great and an exhaust with comprable flow (doesn't have to be louder to flow)
I did it with an 1100 suzuki "MR TURBO" kit. It was a big red "F"ing thingB|
I found a Kerker pipe that had better flow and as quiet as a "stock".
My present car is FULL turbo and stock in appearance.
The only "tell tale" sign is when the cloud of smoke from my wheel wells start to billow. Mostly they see my car and the guy trailing and pull him over and my black Sta/Wagon go on to the DZ....:ph34r:suckers!:ph34r:
A friend of mine does that with Audi & Volvo wagons.
Right now he's putting in a 355H.P. motor into a 740 wagon. I'll ask him when I see him next about car turbo for you...what are you working on?(Make/model)
-Grant

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If I could be a Super Hero,
I chose to be: "GRANT-A-CLAUS". and work 365 days a Year.
http://www.hangout.no/speednews/

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yeah if your serious about the car, likely youd want to build the engine with forged internals, etc... otheriwse you will be running low boost. Anything more than that and its just time till your buyin a new motor...



Yeah, another problem with that is the boost controller, you'll always be saying to yourself "what will one more pound do" Until you find out... :(

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Hook high, flare on time

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For your GT, stay away from the turbo, just put a chip, new exhaust, exhaust headers and intake. If you really want, put a throttle spacer on it, though it will move your power band a bit. Your car has good power, it just has to be unleashed. :)

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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All I can add is that you will need a new bumper sticker like Eezee's, something along the lines of...
I ain't speeding, I'm just flying very low..:D:D

Don't forget to beef up the suspension, no point in all that power if you can't hold the thing down..:S

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He who receives an idea from me, receives instruction himself without lessening mine; as he who lights his taper at mine, receives light without darkening me. Thomas Jefferson

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Ramon lives in Houston, they don't use brakes in Houston, at least not on the beltway anyways..:P:$

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He who receives an idea from me, receives instruction himself without lessening mine; as he who lights his taper at mine, receives light without darkening me. Thomas Jefferson

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I will break from tradition and cease lurking to respond to this since I am a race engine builder and I've been asked similar questions many times before. If the modification is not for a race car I would strongly advise against it unless you are absolutely 100% sure this is what you want to do.

There are loads of potential problems fitting turbos to stock engines and it's certainly not as simple as bolting a dirty great blower to your exhaust manifold. Luckily most reputable kit manufacturers will have thought of all this
and should supply the correct parts.

The main problem is compression ratio. Most normally aspirated engines run around a 9:1 compression ratio. For a turbo engine, this has to be dropped to around 6:1 (numbers depend on the specifics of each engine) You achieve this by either removing material from the combustion chambers in the cylinder head or by fitting low compression pistons. Not doing this will cause severe detonation problems and probably burn out pistons and valves. A burned out piston may cost you a new cylinder block and at least a rebore. You can reduce the chance of detonation probelms by using aviation fuel which has a much higher octane rating than what passes for fuel at a regular gas station.

If you are running carburrettors you are going to have to rejet accordingly. It's best set the whole thing up on a dynomometer. If you are running electronic fuel injection, your ECU will have to be remapped or chipped to suit by a specialist.

The size of turbo should be chosen for a specific engine type. Too small and you get loads of low down grunt but it will be strangled at higher revs and will actually be slower than it was as standard. Too large and you will have no low down power at all and suffer turbo lag problems. I remember fitting a turbo technics kit to a rally car once and if you
floored the throttle is just died for about 3 seconds while the turbo caught up and then took off like the space shuttle. It was truly horrible to drive. Turbo F1 cars used to pump neat fuel into the exhaust manifold just to keep the turbo spinning and thereby avoid the lag problems at the expense of shit loads of fuel.

If you are going to run anything above the most modest of boost presures you will probably need to beef up the bottom end. This will mean a steel crank, rods, main caps and forged pistons. The whole thing needs to be ballanced. You may also find that the cam profile is not best suited to the turbo and need to find a camshaft that matches the new power curve.

I'm sorry if this lot sounds a bit harsh, but for every engine I build, I probably talk two people out of spending money on a modification that will by expensive, time consuming and generally not much of an improvement and definately wont add anything to the value of their car. My advice would be that If you want more power from your road engine, it is much easier to sell your car and buy one with more cubic inches.

I hope this helps and good luck.

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new intake for my car costs $2000 ported and polished. Mine is plastic I have to find a bullit intake and then get it worked on.

I have done all the math keeping my car naturally aspirated will cost more than the turbo...albeit it might be more reliable..hahahahah
"Revolution is an abrupt change in the form of misgovernment.", Ambrose Bierce.

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Helps alot. I am getting a very good deal since I am getting a prototype.

It will be intercooled and I will keep the boost low (6psi), and will run high octane gas only. I may have to advance my timing and or supply an ignition retard device to prevent detonation, but these are all the same problems faced by the supercharger community.

I have EFI and if the kit requires it new injectors and fuel pumps will be included.
"Revolution is an abrupt change in the form of misgovernment.", Ambrose Bierce.

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head gaskets is what I am afraid of. Some folks blow them all the time, but I think they are running like 12 pounds.

I guess I could try the copper thingys.

ramon
"Revolution is an abrupt change in the form of misgovernment.", Ambrose Bierce.

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