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degeneration

Choosing correct/best riser length.

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I am soon going to be ordering a new Icon container, and one option that I'm unsure about is the riser length. The options are 18, 19, 20, 22 or 24 inches.

I'm 5'7" and will be flying a pilot 132 with the container.

What factors should I consider to make my decision, or should I get Aerodyne to choose the ones that they think are best for an I3?

I want to be able to make full use of the flare, so don't want them too short, but at the same time I want to be able to reach my slider, dive loops etc, so don't want them too long. But what "too short" and "too long" is for me, I don't know.

Any advice?
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What length do you have now? Is that length working for you?

That would seem like one easy way to make the decision. That's kind of how I ended up with 20" risers - my rig had 22" risers when I bought it (used) and I always had to really reach to get to my slider (but to be honest, I was a noob and had no idea there were riser length options). I wanted to demo a canopy that was for sale without taking my other canopy off risers, so I borrowed a set of 20" risers. Realized by using them that 20" was exactly right for me (gave me the right reach to get my slider easily but still gave me a full, comfortable flare stroke), so I bought a set for my rig.
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I don't know what size I've got just now, will measure them next time I get my rig out.

Problem is though, I've no idea if they are working for me as well as they could.

My rprevious rig was my first noob rig, so like you I had no idea about riser length. Then got my current rig, with a completely different and much better main, so yeah it handled better, but how much of that was as a result of the risers? No idea.

Having had no basis for comparison, I don't know what is best! I do know just now that on my current risers, I am unable to stall my Pilot 150 by pulling the brake lines down as low as I can. I can reach my slider and dive loops comfortably.
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Quote

Having had no basis for comparison, I don't know what is best! I do know just now that on my current risers, I am unable to stall my Pilot 150 by pulling the brake lines down as low as I can. I can reach my slider and dive loops comfortably.



First off, understand that your ability to stall the canopy and the length of your risers are not directly connected. The direct connection to stalling your canopy is the length of your steering lines. The risers might have an indirect effect on the stall point as different length risers will move the stall point up and down slightly, but the recourse is just to adjust the length of the steering lines to return the stall point to the correct position.

Riser length is all about personal preference. Swoopers prefer longer risers as they will increase the amount of 'dive' you can get out of your canopy. The difference between 18" and 26" riser would be noticable, while the difference between 24" and 26" risers might be more subtle. The underlying idea is that 'longer is better', so most swoopers go with the longest risers that still allow them to easily reach their slider/dive loops.

You can measure your current risers, but keep in mind that you may sit differently in your new harness, or the attachment point might be different, with the end result being you being able to use/not use the same length risers you have now.

If you're not a swooper, order the rig with 22s. Jump it that way for a while and see what you think. You can always sell them after 50 jumps for most of the price of a set of new ones. Scope out some older rigs on the packing mat, and find a guy with beat-up, old shcool velcro risers, and make the deal to sell him your 22s once your new ones come in. It will reduce the cost of the upgrade to $30 or $40 total. As a plus to the other guy, a set of fresh risers really makes you feel like your gear is 'newer' and upgraded.

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As to Riser length: Riser length can only be determined by the canopy designer.
Because of equal line length a ramair canopy transcribes an arc through its span. This arc has a confluence point where all of the lines, which are radial to the arc would theoretically meet. The designer then cuts the lines off at some point in order to fit the jumper with his harness and risers into the assembly. At this point a decision is made as to the delineation of the riser and lines. There are a number of obvious considerations for selection of a good length for the riser, but it must be matched to its line length.
Therefore if your riser is too long the canopy spreads and the top skin wrinkles or if they are too short the canopy is pinched and the bottom skin is not tensioned to its optimum.
Certainly this is more critical on a smaller canopy. The big canopy accuracy folks can get away with anything ‘cause they don’t need lift anyway. The bottom line is we aren’t building jet fighters, these are after all “Ragwings” but this is the theory for perfection.
There is incidentally, an industry standard for the distance from the end of the riser to the brake ring.
As to being able to reach your toggles or slider, this is more of an issue as to where the risers attach to your harness. If they are attached at the top of you shoulders you will hang like a monkey and find them to far away. If they are attached at your upper chest your harness will lift up on your legs putting you into a sitting position with the end of the risers reachable. Also if you can look under your harness suspension point, when sitting in it, the harness is either too big or the risers are attaching to high. This suggests trying a harness in suspension before you buy it.

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