Closing Loop Washer

[glgflyer 0]

Can someone tell me the size of the stainless steel washer that is used on closing loops? I think I read somewhere that it was a size 8 but the number 4 sticks in my head also so I am not sure. Thanks in advance.

[peek 21]

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Can someone tell me the size of the stainless steel washer that is used on closing loops? I think I read somewhere that it was a size 8 but the number 4 sticks in my head also so I am not sure. Thanks in advance.

Assuming regular rigs, not tandem, not using any special large diameter closing loop material...

"Number 8 flat washer". Stainless steel is nice but not necessary. Since you can buy a package of a hundred at the local store like Home Depot or Lowes for cheap, there isn't much need for stainless. Just replace one if it is no longer pretty.

Give 'em to your friends. Encourage them to make spare loops with washers.

[glgflyer 0]

Thank you very much! Heading to Lowes tomorrow.

[BrianM 1]

I use rivet washers - they look just like a washer, but they are thicker and don't bend the way most washers will.

I don't remember what size I have (I didn't keep the package), but I just measured one:

outside diameter: 13 mm - 1/2 inch
inside diameter: 5 mm - 3/16 inch
thickness: 1.5 mm - 1/16 inch

"It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

[Unstable 9]

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I use rivet washers - they look just like a washer, but they are thicker and don't bend the way most washers will.

Fantastic Idea! I find myself worrying in my sleep with a mental picture of a canopy wrapped around the tail and a washer bent in two. Headed to Home Despot Depot Tomorrow!

=========Shaun ==========

[glgflyer 0]

Thanks Brian. I will definitely try these!!!

[JohnRich 4]

Folks are talking about specific size washers here, but I think a warning is in order, as well as some clarifications.

Warning: Don't buy washers which have sharp edges on the inside hole, as that my cut through your closing loop, causing failure and accidental deployment at a dangerous time.

Clarification 1: The inside diameter of the washer hole may vary, depending upon the thickness of the closing loop you use. Closing loops are often seen made out of a variety of materials with different thicknesses, from spaghetti-thin kevlar, to 750-lb cord. The washer hole has to be big enough for the loop to pass through, but small enough that the knot cannot pull through. Thus, the size of the hole must match the type of closing loop being used. Thinking about only certain fixed diameters, ignores the other variables at work.

Clarification 2: Likewise, the outside diameter of the washer should seat nicely over the closing loop grommet, distributing the force around the inside circumference, without tilting sideways or causing other problems. It also shouldn't be so big that a deploying line could get caught under the edge of the washer.

If you're going to buy hardware store washers, take a closing loop with you, and try it out in the store to make sure you have an appropriate size.

Disclaimer: I am not a rigger.

[glgflyer 0]

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I use rivet washers - they look just like a washer, but they are thicker and don't bend the way most washers will.

I don't remember what size I have (I didn't keep the package), but I just measured one:

outside diameter: 13 mm - 1/2 inch
inside diameter: 5 mm - 3/16 inch
thickness: 1.5 mm - 1/16 inch

I picked some of these up today. They are much stronger and the edges don't seem to be quite as sharp as regular flat washers. I will definitely be using these from now on!

[riggermick 7]

Quote

Folks are talking about specific size washers here, but I think a warning is in order, as well as some clarifications.

Warning: Don't buy washers which have sharp edges on the inside hole, as that my cut through your closing loop, causing failure and accidental deployment at a dangerous time.

Clarification 1: The inside diameter of the washer hole may vary, depending upon the thickness of the closing loop you use. Closing loops are often seen made out of a variety of materials with different thicknesses, from spaghetti-thin kevlar, to 750-lb cord. The washer hole has to be big enough for the loop to pass through, but small enough that the knot cannot pull through. Thus, the size of the hole must match the type of closing loop being used. Thinking about only certain fixed diameters, ignores the other variables at work.

Clarification 2: Likewise, the outside diameter of the washer should seat nicely over the closing loop grommet, distributing the force around the inside circumference, without tilting sideways or causing other problems. It also shouldn't be so big that a deploying line could get caught under the edge of the washer.

If you're going to buy hardware store washers, take a closing loop with you, and try it out in the store to make sure you have an appropriate size.

Disclaimer: I am not a rigger.

Sound advice nontheless!!

[ZigZagMarquis 9]

Just don't drill a hole in a penny.

[popsjumper 2]

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Just don't drill a hole in a penny.

My rigger has a Wall of Shame. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff on that wall...and yes, a drilled penny is one of them.

My reality and yours are quite different.
I think we're all Bozos on this bus.
Falcon5232, SCS8170, SCSA353, POPS9398, DS239

[muff528 3]

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Just don't drill a hole in a penny.

Yes, it's much easier to use money with holes already drilled in the center. The coins from Yap should work well.

[ZigZagMarquis 9]

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Just don't drill a hole in a penny.

My rigger has a Wall of Shame. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff on that wall...and yes, a drilled penny is one of them.

Yeah, I know, I've seen them too...

[ZigZagMarquis 9]

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Just don't drill a hole in a penny.

Yes, it's much easier to use money with holes already drilled in the center. The coins from Yap should work well.

Well, dunno how well one of those coins from Yap would workout... ... but I've seen folks try to use a 5 Yen piece too... or drill a hole in a 1 Yen piece, but then we're back to the drill a hole in a penny good idea / bad idea thing...

[councilman24 37]

I've used and recommended pop rivet backers (washers) for 20 years. They do have smoother edges and don't bend.

But, if in doubt about the edges I take the handle end of a file, without a handle, and run it around the bust the edges on the hole. Any steel rod can do this.

I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

[glgflyer 0]

Yea, I can't believe how much stronger these are! On the ones I just purchased the edges do not seem sharp at all. Some of the standard flat washers I have been using have VERY sharp edges. I am very glad to have been directed to these rivet backers. I am very surprised that all drop zones and riggers don't know about these.

[muff528 3]

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Yea, I can't believe how much stronger these are! On the ones I just purchased the edges do not seem sharp at all. Some of the standard flat washers I have been using have VERY sharp edges. I am very glad to have been directed to these rivet backers. I am very surprised that all drop zones and riggers don't know about these.

OK...... you guys are beginning to scare me. Kinda like the audiophools that buy "tube damper o-rings" for 15 bucks apiece, or 50 dollar /ft speaker cable (you have to break 'em in, too), or some kinda fluid that costs more than gold per oz. or special "audiophile wood" or CD edge coloring pens. And my personal favorite.... "gigahertz tweeters"..... as if the old coots that can afford these things can really hear sounds above 10kc. For cryin' out loud!.... it's a washer and it usually comes with a new loop from the gear store.. cheap, too! Check your loop occasionally when you pack and replace it when it starts to wear!