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sunnydee123

Bathroom Remodeling?

By sunnydee123, in The Bonfire

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sunnydee123    0

sunnydee123
So I got this bug up my butt to remodel my bathroom and I don't think he will be a big deal. I just really want to take out the counter/vanity that takes up the one whole wall and put in a little pedestal sink (and yes, I am doing this myself - I'm pretty handy with tools :P - ask anyone who's seen my house). Has anyone done any bathroom remodeling? I think once I get the sink out, the counter top might just be glued to the wall so I'll need to pry it off (without distroying the sheetrock)
and then remove it (might need help with that part). Next question - there is a half wall mirror that appears to be "resting" on the backsplash of the counter which I'm assuming is also glued. Will that stay in place okay? I was thinking about putting up some of that pretty wood on the lower half of the wall just to cover up where the vanity was so it would have a little lip to rest on again.

Ummm...what else..............oh yeah - the floor. I currently have a piece of lynoleom (or something like it) and I'm sure it is NOT under the vanity so I either need to remove and replace it or do something else. Suggestions?!

So talk to me bathroom remodeling pros. I want to make good use of this long weekend - and I am starting tonight :P ANYONE WANNA COME HELP? Got a spare room (2 actually) and will BBQ something yummy for ya...

Bobina Villa signing off ~ :o

Dreams become reality, one choice at a time...

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Brains    2

Brains
The miror is more than likely glued to the wall, it shouldn't need any support from underneath.

Pedestal (sp?) sinks are tricky, or can be to retrofit into a home. Plumbing lines and traps are critical for pedestals, they need to be hidden or are otherwise extremely unsightly. Also make sure that the condensate drain from your a/c system does not go to that sink. It is possible to install the pedestal and only have some of the plumbig showing, i have seen many vanity's that covered up some not so nice work.:S

Flooring, tile floors are not that difficult to install but will extend the time of your project. Likewise *some* of the pergo style flooring is easy to install, and some can even be put down over linoleum flooring if it is glued down properly.

I suggest a trip to home depot or lowes and see what your options are, and have fun.:)

Never look down on someone, unless they are going down on you.

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wmw999    2,588

wmw999
Haven't done the sink thing, but I did put new flooring into both bathrooms. I used vinyl strips; they are wood-printed, but to help with the illusion, they're also 3"X3', which is roughly the size of wood flooring. Quite convincing. Harder to put down than square tiles, but they really look great.

And the surface you put your floor on is VERY important. Too much surface prep is enough.

Wendy W.
There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown)

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jimmytavino    16

jimmytavino
way back when .. I installed pre made cabinets and countertops both in kitchen and baths...
If the counter is formica and the cabinet a standard wood framed "box".. it's possible that the cabinet is drive screwed to the wall.. up near the top of the back frame... maybe in a couple of places. ( usually where the studs are located,,, on 16 inch centers) We sometimes glued the counter to the Cabinet.. but not the counter to the wall....( a scribe fit against the wall would have made it tight,),,, There is a chance that there is a bead of caulking or sealant,,, at the top of the backsplash which may need to be cut with a drywall knife,,, ( silicone can be tough stuff)...
The counter May have a screw or two coming UP from the front cabinet rail, or sometimes located in plastic corner brackets into the underside of the counter... You may need to really get in there and use your eyes...B|;) when you start the take apart...have a good droplight handy...
Do the H2O supply lines have shutoffs on them ???? ... if so great... if not check behind or below, or go right to the main..... and shut down the water...Open a couple of other faucets in the house so the water can bleed out of the lines..
Try to avoid soldering pipes if you can..:o[:/]:(. that's when you're using a torch and flux, and solder, and water is dripping,,, and the solder's not taking, and the fitting's aren't clean, and the water is dripping....!!!!:ph34r: :o hahahahahah...;) get my Point???? try to stick to compression fittings which can be tightend and loosened....
The floor SUB surface is what's important... You may select any type of floor,,, But it's good to make sure the plywood or Plank sub floor is solid. When the vanity comes out you may have a floor level difference,,, figure out if it is half an inch or 3/4 or whatever and get some plywood which is the same thickness and measure and install a filler piece so the whole floor is even.....Then install a smooth new surface of underlayment,,, ( you have to do alot of nail driving or screwing,,, so the floor doesn't flex at all...) to make a nice consistant surface for the covering
Usually 1/4 inch thick "luan mahogany" 'underlayment' serves as a good surface for glued linoleum or "pergo" flooring...
A ceramic tile floor might be best secured to a cement board, underlay... It's sometimes called "tilebacker" and can be used on walls or floors.. Thinset Mortar is then used to glue the tile...
Tile is a whole other subject,,, BUT is isn't that hard,, makes sense if your budget allows for it,,, Is more of a craft than an Art.... and provides a durable waterproof floor.
Select a good adhesive if you use a flooring that glues down.
As for the water lines and drain lines... think simple, use the existing style.... pvc drain lines with washers and nuts are adjustable and pretty good to work with..,,,, Tighten, but go easy....
Sure you can tackle the project and at the same time add your own style and ideas...:)
As for the mirror.......check to see if there are small clips at the sides.... Check if there are any clips between the mirror and the backsplash... If the mirror is sitting on the backsplash, might be best to remove the side clips enough to take it down and set it aside. during the work.... ( There is a chance that it is NOT glued to the wall ).....so that it lets you more easy deal with the countertop and vanity... Good Luck......sounds like a nice weekend project.....Only when are you gonna go Jumping!!??????????:)That what weekends are for???????

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slug    1

slug
Major Question

How may bathrooms do you have in your house? If you've only got one beware! Murphy's law: whatever can go wrong will go wrong, your project will take twice as long and cost twice of much.>:(

IMO Pergo flooring in a wet room is incompatiable.

Go to the library get a few books on DIY remodeling
look at the pictures read and then go to home depot type store during the week and ask questions.

R.I.P.

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Ducky    0

Ducky
Well hun having extensive experience in this area I'd say the advice you have received so far is EXCELLENT.
I'd only add a thing or 2. You mentioned possibly putting up some wainscoting ("pretty wood on the bottom half of the wall")... That is a very good idea for covering the scars you will most likely have from removing the cabinet/sink. There are varied methods for installing this, but here is what works best for me. First remove all the baseboard which will most likely have to be done in order to install new flooring anyway. Second I usually take 4'x8' sheets of beadboard (beaded plywood about $28 a sheet) and cut them to 4'x4'. Only problem with this size is having to cut them around existing electrical switches/outlets which in bathrooms are located at 42". So if your lazy cut the sheets to 36". You will notice the sheets have both an underlying and overlapping side so they appear seemless when installed. It is usually best to draw a level line around the room at the desired top height of sheets and hold to line. Start in one corner and circle the room ignoring small gaps in corners (very unlikey your corners are actually square or plum) both inside and outside corners.
A few tips: I usally mark the factual location of studs (don't assume because you found one stud that the next is 16" away) just above the top line so as I hold the sheet up I know where to nail and also it is crucial to align your joints and seams over a stud so that the joints remain tight. I also would suggest adding a bit of glue to the backside of each sheet after test fitting and before nailing. The glue helps hold the sheets tight to the wall as the tend to swell away from it over time otherwise. Oh yeah and I always hold any wood in bathrooms barring baseboard up at least one half inch from the floor. One overflowed toilet and the plywood will drink it up like a straw.
Once all the sheets are up and flooring is down you can install/reinstall the baseboard. When doing a wainscoting I prefer to use a baseboard with a large top edge or even better a square top edge as the corner mold better fits to this type i recommend just a plain ole 1x6 for the best look. You will now need to install a top mold or banding. This comes in several varieties from square to chairrail and has a 1/4" grove out of the back bottom side to lip over the beaded plywood. It installs much like baseboard and will cover any slight variations in the tops of your sheets. One tip on this top trim, it's your last chance to get that top line nice and level/straight so take a look at it before permanently attatching. Lastly you can now install inside and outside corner mold specifically made for wainscoting and paneling to cover the gaps you have in corners.
Well hope that small novel helps and best of luck to ya!!

*****I accept no responsibility for the loss of patience or fingers resulting from attempts to tackle the task discussed. Nor to I make any warranties implied or written that my typing and babble are either legible or comprehendable. I do guarantee that a project of this magnitude will cost twice as much as anticipated and take 3 times as long. I further recommend reserving your own parking space at Home Depot as you will make no less than 8 trips there before Monday!;);)***


Check out some of my handywork>>>>
Building With Character
Sometimes your the bug, sometimes your the windshield. Sometimes your the hammer sometimes your the nail. Question is Hun, Do you wanna get hammered or do you wanna get nailed?????

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smiles    0

smiles
:P:P
Me too!!

except remodeling the whole bathroom/ tub/ vanity/ toilet/ mirror/ flooring and ceramic tiles/ lighting...

I prefer a large pedestal oval sink. Want to purchase narrow high stands of shelves with glass doors to place on each side of pedestal sink. Once vanity removed- and old sink- will be placing ceramic tiles for backsplash of sink..to floor.
you may need a plumber to install your sink...?
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_kitchen_bath_counters/article/0,1797,HGTV_3745_1392867,00.html
Sinks:
Cast Iron
Solid cast iron construction stands firm against dents. Its extra-protective enamel coating is fire-polished to retain deep glossy color, and is also resistant to chipping and scratching.
Vitreous China
A strong material, vitreous china is impervious to absorption. It offers a durable, non-porous surface with a hard, glossy finish.
Fireclay
Similar in composition to vitreous china, this material offers a smooth, non-porous surface that won’t rust, fade or discolor.

As my home was built before 1980 I understand that to remove original linoleum flooring where amosite (brown asbestos) cement products used in glue- it will be a health hazard so need to hire asbestos "busters" to remove it safely (also having kitchen linoleum removed & ripping up carpet as want wood floors..)

Still deciding for my bathroom floor... should be durable, water resistant, safe--and, of course, beautiful. I love tumbled marble or Mosaic tiles made from natural stone. Tiles come in a natural or matte finish and provide extra traction, making for less slippery surfaces.

SMiles;)

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Laurel    0

Laurel
My $0.02:
* Do not go with Pergo flooring because of water on your floor
* Make sure the current tile on your floor is not Aesbestos. In older homes, this is common. It's harmless until you break it up. If it is Aesbestos, just install flooring on top of it and you will be fine.
* If installing tile, use Wonderboard as a base. Lowe's or HD will know what this is.
* You will probably bust up the sheet rock, but you can replace the messed up area by cutting it out of the wall and placing a sheet rock patch with mesh seams. Or you can go with beadboard (also called wainscoating) over the mess.
* Your mirror was probably installed with liquid nails, so it's probably good to go.
* If converting to a pedestal sink, think about lost storage space.
* Good luck. See www.hgtv.com or go to Lowes or Home Depot sites.
.....................................................................
PMS#28, Pelogrande Rodriguez#1074
My Pink M

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Ducky    0

Ducky
As my home was built before 1980 I understand that to remove original linoleum flooring where amosite (brown asbestos) cement products used in glue- it will be a health hazard so need to hire asbestos "busters" to remove it safely (also having kitchen linoleum removed & ripping up carpet as want wood floors..)


UUuuuumm well sorta. As it is possible or even probable that there is asbestos present in your flooring hiring a specialized company may not be so necessary. Asbestos IS harmful, but prolonged unprotected exposure is what is the biggest danger. Provided you use/wear proper protective clothing, rerspirator and gloves you'll be fine. Just so long as you don't take a sander to the stuff or grind it up into tiny airborn particles.


kwak
Sometimes your the bug, sometimes your the windshield. Sometimes your the hammer sometimes your the nail. Question is Hun, Do you wanna get hammered or do you wanna get nailed?????

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slug    1

slug
>>UUuuuumm well sorta. As it is possible or even probable that there is asbestos present in your flooring hiring a specialized company may not be so necessary. Asbestos IS harmful, but prolonged unprotected exposure is what is the biggest danger. Provided you use/wear proper protective clothing, rerspirator and gloves you'll be fine. Just so long as you don't take a sander to the stuff or grind it up into tiny airborn particles.>>

If the tile & sustraqte is in good shpe why remove it? Talk to the big box stores about th right mehod and mastic's to attach the new tile to the old.

PPE is ok if you know how to use it, isolate the room your working in and decominate as your's removing the the PPE. Central heat air system you gan contaminate the who house with asbestos. Leave the exclusion Zone before deconing you will contaminate every place you walk and touch.

Hire a liscensed pro to remove asbestos materials? You can't affors it if they do it correctly. Big can of worms.

R.I.P.



kwak

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Laurel    0

Laurel
Quote

If the tile & sustraqte is in good shpe why remove it? Talk to the big box stores about th right mehod and mastic's to attach the new tile to the old.



I am starting to feel like no one reads my posts. ;)
.....................................................................
PMS#28, Pelogrande Rodriguez#1074
My Pink M

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smiles    0

smiles
thanx for the info Ducky :P

Checked out your link for "building with character" and I am so impressed. Just viewing the timber frame tractor barn...unreal....someone sure loves their tractor??? The size of those beams:P:P:P- is that douglas fir???? The Avondale Estates porch is to die for.............

At home here (B.C. Canada) a crew of my son's friends are working summer doing Asbestos removal- shitty job but workers compensation board safety is mandatory atleast. Presently their job sites are old schools in our community and we have our fingers crossed on contract bid to remove the wood...(I love wood)..
One old school was built in 1920's and you would not believe the fir....B|also re: the gymnasiam floor...outrageous....B|:PB|

I be not interested in asbestos fine fibres...(over reaction)...potential to become friable material.

SMiles;)

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Ducky    0

Ducky
Thanx for the kind words Smiles:)
The tractor Barn is made of just plain ole white pine. All the lumber was cut from dead standing trees about a mile from the construction site. The trees were killed by a beetle infestation and dried standing before being cut. There is alot of timber framing in this area and seems like 1 out of every 5 locals has his own saw mill. I mostly just supervise/design as of late, but I personally designed and built the tractor barn. We refer to it as the toy box, it also houses a Land Rover Defender in Winter.

The Avondale porch you like was floored with Oak floor planking salvaged from a 1800s barn in Pennsylvania. I personally did all of the trim carpentry in that home and it is by far the home I am most proud of. That entire house is a historicaly correct 1920's Bungalow constructed in 2001, even has antique glass door knobs on solid fir doors.

We are currently clearing for a site for a new home and many of the trees removed will be milled and returned into the new home. Maple floors, White pine T&G ceilngs etc.

I'd love to get my hands on some of those old school house beams and floor boards you spoke of. That old wood has so much character, nothing like new growth timber.

kwak
Sometimes your the bug, sometimes your the windshield. Sometimes your the hammer sometimes your the nail. Question is Hun, Do you wanna get hammered or do you wanna get nailed?????

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Laurel    0

Laurel
Quote

Quote

I am starting to feel li



Huh? Say sumptin?

:ph34r:

Some good advice in this thread.

Some not so good...



You are a funny guy. :D
.....................................................................
PMS#28, Pelogrande Rodriguez#1074
My Pink M

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sunnydee123    0

sunnydee123
WOW...lots more responses I never saw but I have to say - my project was not as bad as I thought. Thursday night was demolition of old stuff - no problem but lotsa talking to myself.

Friday I picked out new vinyl flooring (was easiest and cheapest) and installed it rather easily right over top of current floor :)
Saturday I measured all the walls, went shopping and got my "beadboard", trim, new vanity and sink and all the accesories I needed. Saturday I got the beadboard up (per Home Depot gang I totally cheated and used liquid nails so no drilling - LOVE THAT STUFF), then grandpa came and helped me do the trim (that was his thing back in the day and he needed to feel important for the day ;)) and started prep work for vanity and sink.

Sunday I took a break and played in families pool all day and then went home, and did all the plumbing - rather easy once my uncle sat me down and walked me thru it. Monday was the true test and it went all night with no leaks so I guess I am good.

Nasty blue, 5'5 vanity replaced with 2' white vanity and all silver accesories. New cultered marble sink. Boring gray vinyl replaced with dark marble looking tile shaped vinyl. Boring old white walls snazzed up with varnished looking pine and a bit darker accent trim.

It was a great weekend project and I did it all for just about $200 - weekends jump money [:/];)

Thanks again to all for the tips, suggestions and PM's. Now whose coming to Skydive Atlanta to play for the Anniversary Boogie? I need to JUMP!

Dreams become reality, one choice at a time...

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skycat    0

skycat
WOO HOO......way to go girl!!

I talked Derek into us buying a house that was a "fixer-uper", I haven't even started house hunting and I'm excited about getting down and dirty remodeling. I had helped my Dad build out his unfinished basement, so I have framing, plumbing, tiling and electric basics down.

Good to know that there are ways of cheating.
Fly it like you stole it!

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