Rock Climbing Question

[juanesky 0]

Any of you around here could give me some pointers on how to start in New England? Books, groups, instructors, learning about the type/use of gear.

"According to some of the conservatives here, it sounds like it's fine to beat your wide - as long as she had it coming." -Billvon

[op5e 0]

I would suggest starting at an indoor climbing gym. This will give you basic skills needed on the rock as well as the strength and flexibility (and calices). There are great courses on rigging and so forth and they are well worth it if you are serious. There are some introductions to rock climbing entities around; they are worth it if you cannot find others. If you are a uni student, I would first look to see if there is a climbing club, they are more likely to teach you things and it’s a better atmosphere.

A climbing gym will let you meet climbers of different levels that may also do outdoor climbs. I would find experienced climbers that are willing to show you the ropes as well as someone about your level that is willing to advance with you. Like in skydiving it is important to find people that play it safe and that you can trust. Also check that they actually have experience and have not just been climbing for X amount of time. Ask a few others what they think of the person. Also outdoor shops that sell climbing gear may also know of people looking for climbing partners or a good place to start.

Learn your gear and learn how to do the knots. This way you can see if your buddy is doing a good job or not.

To start with I would buy a comfortable harness and climbing shoes and a chalk bag. Hopefully you can start with a top rope outdoor climb and use someone else rig, make sure if it is mates rates, you ensure the gear is safe yourself and that you buy the guy beers for his trouble afterwards. You will be looking for the same things you are looking for in their gear as you do in skydiving gear, cracks in metal equipment and frays in the ropes and harnesses.

If you are going to climb out in a national park or similar think about the safety equipment and training you may need. Get a first aid certificate, bring a first aid kit, space blankets, torches, mobile phone if it works out there, tents and the list goes on and keep this in the car at the very least. I personally would not rely on someone else to bring this stuff.

Like any sport that you are exposed to the elements for extended periods, make sure you have enough fluids and food and use sun cream etc.. Nothing worst than flaking just near the top.

Also if you have a cliff nearby, never be scared to boulder (climb sideways) as this teaches you great skills. It is my understanding that boulder’in gives you more of a workout than standard climbing. But make sure you always look up, not only for other climbers, but also for things that may dislodge. When I was climbing in Brisbane we had a cliff in the middle of the city (about 15meters I think) there was also the possibility of whuffo’s being above dropping rocks down. Mind you boulder’in can be done even on a building that has interesting brickwork or even a rock wall. If it is too easy for you then try having less of your finger and foot touching the rock, and try missing holds.

I would suggest asking around for good places to climb and a good climb to start with. You do not want to rely just on the people you are climbing with to recommend climbs. This way you do not try too hard too fast and actually work your way into harder climbs. Normally outdoor shops and climbing gyms will have guide books for your local climbs that have grades so you can tell how hard a climb is.

Most of all have fun, when you stop having fun find another sport. I had a string of bad climbing partners (or the good ones moved away) and this affected my ability to trust the person below and hence I stopped having fun. My solution was to start boulder’in as much as possible and I loved this. I have since moved states and stopped climbing about three years ago.

Also I would just like to add that I climbed a lot for 2-3 years about 2-6 nights a week for a number of hours (we had lights on the cliff) a night. I only climbed this one place and climbed indoor so I would not consider myself very good source of knowledge for (say) climbs out in national parks etc. Pretty much I was similar to a B license in skydiving, could do some things well but overall I was still very much a novice. So use the information above appropriately.

[mailin 0]

Hey, not too far from you there's an indoor climbing gym in Mystic, CT; exit 80 - right off the exit.

About 40 min. from Providence.

Pretty cool place, but its expensive. People are real friendly and helpful.



Jen

Arianna Frances

[IanHarrop 42]

I suggest DON'T DO IT!!!

That rock climbing shit is dangerous, stick to skydiving!

"Where troubles melt like lemon drops, away above the chimney tops, that's where you'll find me" Dorothy

[jonstark 8]

Go get a chalk bag and some shoes then just do it.

Don't climb higher than you want to fall and make sure you can climb down what you can get up. At this stage downclimbing is an essential skill.

You can get real strong in the gym but it ain't rock climbing.

And by the way... Get to know a local orthopedic clinic along the way...

trad Jon

[bertusgeert 1]

op5e gave a real good description.
I would just add, and op5e probably knows this, i'm just clearing up any possible confusion.
Traversing - is climbing sideways. It could be that you traverse in the gym to warm up, or you could traverse on a bigwall route.

Bouldering is like its name says, bouldering. you climb up short stretches of rock that you can usually top out (climb on top of). This greatly increases power and technique, but if you do it too much it'll kill your endurance. But, Bouldering is great fun!

May I ask why you said this?

"Don't climb higher than you want to fall and make sure you can climb down what you can get up. At this stage downclimbing is an essential skill."

I never really found it a necesarry skill, please explain why you think it is so I can learn to be wiser
In the end, let me add my tny bit of experience.
I took a friend out and we climbed an easy two pitch trad route and rapped down. It freaked him out. I then took the same friend to the gym a year later, and he loved it. He started going way more often that I could. I then took him outside again, and he straight up flew past most stuff I threw at him that day. After 6 months he now climbs 5.12.

Moral of the story - an indoor gym is a great blessing - build your strength, learn other stuff from other climbers there. But unless speedy sport competitions is your thing, that isn't climbing. GET OUTSIDE! You will see the difference, and it "rocks". .

A great book for all kinds of mountaineering all the way from hiking to sport to trad to ice to everest is called "FREEDOM OF THE HILLS". A great buy.

The "HOW TO" Series is also very good, decribing in great detail everything you need to know.

And dont forget people, always talk to them and ask q's.

GOOD LUCK, GET STRONG and rip up mate!

---------------------------------------------
As jy dom is moet jy bloei!

[flyangel2 2]

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"Don't climb higher than you want to fall and make sure you can climb down what you can get up. At this stage downclimbing is an essential skill."

Maybe in case the climber gets stuck and can't move forward. I practice my climb down when in the gym.

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. - Edward Abbey

[idlewild70 0]

hey Juan,

Theres a rock climbing place on albion road about 1/2 mile before BPSC on the left side of the road. I have not been, nor can i remember the name, but you should look into it.


Jeff

-Fish


Blue skies, Soft landings

[skiskyrock 0]

Since it's winter now, I'd suggest you join a rock gym to learn the basics of movement. Get to know some experienced climbers. Learn the basics of ropecraft, rapelling, and anchors. Take a self rescue course When spring comes, get outside. DO NOT assume you know anything about outdoor climbing from your time spent in the gym.

The Appalachian Mountain Club in CT does quite a few group trips during the summer that are appropriate for complete beginners... I don't know about the Rhode Island chapter. In the spring they typically offer a two day beginners course that is pretty thorough... the equivalent to a FJC.

I don't know about RI, but CT is loaded with good top rope climbing spots. Ragged Mountain in central CT is the best, but go with someone familiar with the access situation. If you can find a copy of "Hooked on Traprock" it lists tons of others.

[juanesky 0]

OP, that was some great advice. Jenn, I will take yours too, thanks a lot, and keep me posted when you go through AFF. I can coach you for free once you get back, I can coach you to get your A lic....

Bert, Jon, also thanks for the tips...This will get me started. Ian, the only reason I'm not jumping right now, is because my rig is getting fixed, I don't mind jumping in the cold...


Blue skies, and many thanks.

Mary, I'll promise you no worm eating when climbing.

"According to some of the conservatives here, it sounds like it's fine to beat your wide - as long as she had it coming." -Billvon

[juanesky 0]

Jeffrey, I don't know what highway-road you are referring to BPSC. I will look into it, but it will help if you let me know if it is the turnpike, or I-95, 93...etc...

Matt, just sent an email over there. I won't assume anything, it has been over 10 years last time I wen rappelling. Used to be in a SAR team as a volunteer in Venezuela.

Good riddance.

"According to some of the conservatives here, it sounds like it's fine to beat your wide - as long as she had it coming." -Billvon

[bluewaterstream 0]

Buying an intro to rock climbing book by John Long is a great place to start. Read and study that thing like it's the Bible.

Next, I'd suggest beginning with bouldering and/or top roping. Learn how to set TR's up safely always using an equalized 3-point anchor system.

Take your time getting into leading, especially if you're leaning towards traditional climbing (aka: Trad). Be very selective about your belay partners.

Most of my east coast climbing has been done at the Gunks (Shawangunk Mountains) in New York. Definitely take a drive there - you'll love it! The scenery, climbers, and the quality of the rock there is sweet! I don't really boulder, but I hear that the bouldering there is pretty good. I only climbed trad while I was there because that's really what the Gunks is all about, but I did see quite a few people also doing some bouldering and top roping there too.

Be safe and have fun,

John

[flyangel2 2]

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Mary, I'll promise you no worm eating when climbing

Rewards are good.

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. - Edward Abbey

[op5e 0]

In regards to Traversing and Bouldering, I always used the term bouldering and so did many others. That is what you get for climbing a cliff in the middle of the city, many people who don't know what they are talking about, lol. We used to call it freeclimbing when someone would climb the 17m routes without a rope.

Also climbing gyms are great, but you get out of them what you put in. If you only power your way through them you will suck on a technical climb and visa versa.

[bluewaterstream 0]

Quote

Moral of the story - an indoor gym is a great blessing - build your strength, learn other stuff from other climbers there. But unless speedy sport competitions is your thing, that isn't climbing. GET OUTSIDE! You will see the difference, and it "rocks".

Amen!

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I never really found it (downclimbing) a necesarry skill, please explain why you think it is so I can learn to be wiser

When trying to flash or redpoint a route, downclimbing is an awesome skill. Let's say you get to a crux on a route but you're too pumped to pull past it - you can anaylze the crux and come up with a plan on how to get past it, then downclimb to a nice jug or ledge, take a rest without hanging on the rope, and then once you're all rested up go back and pull the crux and get the flash or redpoint.

Also, sometimes on a trad routes you have to climb a little off route to place protection and then downclimb to get back on route. That one doesn't happen all that much, but when you're sketchin' out on lead an you need to place something ASAP, it can be a good skill to have. No doubt, it's saved my ass a few times. Sometimes going a little off route for a solid placement is well worth it.

I've also heard people say that learning to downclimb helps out with technique, but I'm not so sure how much truth there really is to that.