hackish 8 #1 February 9, 2009 So I decided my blood pressure wasn't high enough. Decided to play around with the woman's Chinese knockoff sewing machine again. She's headed over to Europe so I decided to make a money belt out of nylon, some tape and velcro. I'm wondering what people typically use for needle size? This stupid thing just tangles to shit after the first few stitches. I've been told it's probably the needle size. I've tried a 100, 80 and 70. the 70 broke so I'm assuming an 80 or 90 is appropriate. -Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #2 February 9, 2009 I play around with a home machine and E thread every once in a while and I found out its not just the size of needle but the type of opening in it. Of course balancing the needle to bobbin tension is a challenge and it needs to be way higher than the machine is rated for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary73 10 #3 February 9, 2009 I've been using E thread in my Singer 237 (home machine) since '77 with very few problems. I mainly use 90/14 ball-point needles. 16s would be better, but are harder to find in ball point. Yeah, tangles are usually a tension issue. If the machine is set up for lighter thread, the bobbin tension may be too high with E thread. Also, on a lot of machines it's necessary to hold on to both thread ends for the first few stitches. Another issue can be lubrication. Unless the machine is properly lubed, things can get out of sync and cause any number of issues. Needle breaks are usually caused by the seam-person pulling the material too much, causing the needle tip to be pulled forward so far that it impacts the bobbin frame. If this happens enough, it can scar the bobbin to the point that it snags the thread and causes problems of its own. I actually prefer my 237 over any of the heavier machines for canopy work, though Dave DeWolf has some really sweet Consews at his place now. "Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggerpaul 1 #4 February 9, 2009 I find it also depends on what I am sewing. When I am repairing leather jumpsuit booties, I may use a 110/18 with a needle point. For lighter work I will usually use 90/14 or 100/16. As Gary said, ball point needles seem best for most fabrics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiggerLee 63 #5 February 9, 2009 I just checked. A 19 is the smallest we use here. I could probable get by with some thing smaller. It sounds like your not pulling the thread back from around the bobbin. Some home machines have a very light spring on the tension plate. You may not be able to screw the knut down tight enough with out actualy clamping the thread. Get a stiffer spring, rethread the machine so the thread makes two loops around the holes it goes through before the plate rather then zig zag through them, add a half loop through the little post on top if it has two holes to go through. All of these can add a base tension to the thread before it goes into the tension plate. Or just get a real machine and sew like a real man! LeeLee lee@velocitysportswear.com www.velocitysportswear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hackish 8 #6 February 10, 2009 I tried to play with the tension a lot. Also tried some lighter thread but with little impact in the results. I may just have to get someone experienced to set it up correctly so I can concentrate on sewing, not sewing machine repairs. I've been offered a Singer 251-13. Spent about 2h trying to figure out what it is and what it would be good for before I accept (I just have to pay freight on it). Any ideas on that? -Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gene03 0 #7 February 10, 2009 Quote I just checked. A 19 is the smallest we use here. I could probable get by with some thing smaller. It sounds like your not pulling the thread back from around the bobbin. Some home machines have a very light spring on the tension plate. You may not be able to screw the knut down tight enough with out actualy clamping the thread. Get a stiffer spring, rethread the machine so the thread makes two loops around the holes it goes through before the plate rather then zig zag through them, add a half loop through the little post on top if it has two holes to go through. All of these can add a base tension to the thread before it goes into the tension plate. Or just get a real machine and sew like a real man! Lee Heh, heh. I use 18's, 19's, 20's, 21's, 22's and 23's, depending on the task.“The only fool bigger than the person who knows it all is the person who argues with him. Stanislaw Jerzy Lec quotes (Polish writer, poet and satirist 1906-1966) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gene03 0 #8 February 10, 2009 Quote I tried to play with the tension a lot. Also tried some lighter thread but with little impact in the results. I may just have to get someone experienced to set it up correctly so I can concentrate on sewing, not sewing machine repairs. I've been offered a Singer 251-13. Spent about 2h trying to figure out what it is and what it would be good for before I accept (I just have to pay freight on it). Any ideas on that? -Michael To be a good Seamster you have to learn sewing machine mechanics also. Send a PM to RiggerRob (Rob Ludlow). He's one of your countrymen and has tons of experience.“The only fool bigger than the person who knows it all is the person who argues with him. Stanislaw Jerzy Lec quotes (Polish writer, poet and satirist 1906-1966) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #9 February 10, 2009 http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/251.pdf Have we told you about this site yet? Shipping on the head should be about $40. A table motor and head can be broken down, packed separate and shipped UPS in three boxes for $150 or so. Whole thing up and running on a table is probably worth $250 - $350. New table and motor are usually quoted at $250 plus shipping. Check https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=default&s=yes for parts. If your going to have one machine I'd wait, learn on a home machine, (they will do e thread and size 18 needles) and something else later.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hackish 8 #10 February 10, 2009 I found that site but not the specific manual you linked to. The entire thing can be mine for $40. I don't mind dabbling in mechanical things and tuning up sewing machines but I really think this omni machine is either broken or just simply junk. It was purchased some years ago at walmart and apparently never really worked properly. A poor quality chinese knockoff perhaps. So I don't mind saving up and buying something quality to learn with. The Singer 251 I've been offered is obviously good quality but very limited in what it can do. It will do a 301 stitch or a 301 stitch. By the answers posted I get the impression that sewing nylon is not that picky on needle size. -Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiggerLee 63 #11 February 10, 2009 Most of what we use is very forgiving as long as the neadle is sharp. Does any one have a lot of exspereance with the more stableized fabrics, the "sail cloths" and paraglider fabrics that are becomeing more fashionable? I would think some of them would be less forgiving in terms of neadle size and oversewing etc. LeeLee lee@velocitysportswear.com www.velocitysportswear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
