masterrig 1 #26 May 22, 2007 Quote Quote Quote Yup...you were tying a slipknot. The attached pic should help.... __________________________________________ That's a real good picture of the 'proper' knot. I like to finger-trap the excess line and just 'tack' the line with 2-turns of 'E'-thread. That keeps the excess from slipping out of the finger-trap. Chuck Chuck, a question I too hand tack the finger trap to keep the line in. I use the light super tack instead of E thread. I considered E but I thought the smaller light tack thread would be less abrasive on the spectra should some force get applied somehow. What do you think? ________________________________ I've tacked a finger-trap at the toggles with home sewing thread (in a pinch). The tack doesnt need to be strong, it's only holding excess line, inside the line. Also, I only tack them just snug. I've never seen a problem using Nylon thread as far as abrasion and etc. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rushmc 23 #27 May 22, 2007 Quote Quote Quote Quote Yup...you were tying a slipknot. The attached pic should help.... __________________________________________ That's a real good picture of the 'proper' knot. I like to finger-trap the excess line and just 'tack' the line with 2-turns of 'E'-thread. That keeps the excess from slipping out of the finger-trap. Chuck Chuck, a question I too hand tack the finger trap to keep the line in. I use the light super tack instead of E thread. I considered E but I thought the smaller light tack thread would be less abrasive on the spectra should some force get applied somehow. What do you think? ________________________________ I've tacked a finger-trap at the toggles with home sewing thread (in a pinch). The tack doesnt need to be strong, it's only holding excess line, inside the line. Also, I only tack them just snug. I've never seen a problem using Nylon thread as far as abrasion and etc. Chuck Thanks Sounds like either is OK are far as you see. I do like using a working with the smaller waxed cord. It is softer to work with and easier to pick out if I have to. Thanks again Marc"America will never be destroyed from the outside, if we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." Abraham Lincoln Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #28 May 22, 2007 Quote Quote Quote Quote Quote Yup...you were tying a slipknot. The attached pic should help.... __________________________________________ That's a real good picture of the 'proper' knot. I like to finger-trap the excess line and just 'tack' the line with 2-turns of 'E'-thread. That keeps the excess from slipping out of the finger-trap. Chuck Chuck, a question I too hand tack the finger trap to keep the line in. I use the light super tack instead of E thread. I considered E but I thought the smaller light tack thread would be less abrasive on the spectra should some force get applied somehow. What do you think? ________________________________ I've tacked a finger-trap at the toggles with home sewing thread (in a pinch). The tack doesnt need to be strong, it's only holding excess line, inside the line. Also, I only tack them just snug. I've never seen a problem using Nylon thread as far as abrasion and etc. Chuck Thanks Sounds like either is OK are far as you see. I do like using a working with the smaller waxed cord. It is softer to work with and easier to pick out if I have to. Thanks again Marc _____________________________________ I should've mentioned that waxed thread is good. It will help 'keep' the knot. When using 'E' thread, after I've snipped the thread, leaving about 1/8" ends, I'll use a Bic lighter and carefully sear the ends and quickly swipe my finger over it. This leaves a smooth knot and less likely to come un-done. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblu3 0 #29 May 23, 2007 Ok, I have completed all the work and I have attached some pics. I would appreciate your input. You have all been really helpful so far. I have learnt a lot doing this and I recommend others to try and assemble their own stuff. With regards the pictures: The 1st pic shows my knot, the factory brake set mark below the knot and the excess line that was left over. The 2nd pic is a close up of the 1st pic. The 3rd pic shows the assembled toggle and the excess line finger trapped back up the brake line. I did not tack the fingertrap as I may still need to do some adjustments. Remember I finger trapped after tying the knot. So this should knot affect brake line length, am I right? The 4th pic is more or less the same as the 3rd. I appreciate your comments and your help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marinho 0 #30 May 23, 2007 Quote The 1st pic shows my knot, the factory brake set mark below the knot and the excess line that was left over. I appreciate your comments and your help. Hi, You did a great job trying to find out about toggle assembly. It's always good when you learn new stuff! I suggest you to put the brake set mark above the knot instead below. You're loosing about 2"1/2 of your brake line length making it shorter. Cheers,Gus Marinho Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblu3 0 #31 May 23, 2007 I followed the PD main canopy manual and it said to put the knot where I did. see for yourself on page 10. http://www.performancedesigns.com/docs/MainUsersManual.pdf What is the norm? Do people usually stick to the factroy brake setting? I am a conservative pilot. My canopy is a Stiletto 150 but I do straight in approaches only, no swooping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mark 107 #32 May 23, 2007 Quote I followed the PD main canopy manual and it said to put the knot where I did. See for yourself on page 10. The PD manual you cite shows something different than what you did. The manual shows the factory set mark showing on the line between the knot and the brake eye. That's a good setting for conservative (!) Stiletto pilots. For the Stiletto 150 listed in your profile, PD says the length of the lower brake line should be about 17 inches from the brake eye to the toggle. (PD actually measures from the top of the brake eye, not the bottom, so their chart shows 18 inches.) What is the finished length of your brake lines? Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marinho 0 #33 May 23, 2007 Hi, Look at the file below. This may help you to visualize it better! http://www.performancedesigns.com/docs/linetrims/Measure-Line-Trim.pdfGus Marinho Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblu3 0 #34 May 23, 2007 ooops, I could have sworn I had it exaclty like the manual. That's why I posted the pics....to get another set of eyes. I will change it again and move the knot so that the mark is above the knot. Thanks guys for catching that out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,450 #35 May 23, 2007 Hi skyblu3, Quote So this should knot affect brake line length, am I right? As Beezy said in a up-post, this will shorten your brake line length. But it should not be very much. Redo your knot and try things out. Then adjust as you feel you want to. Jerry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblu3 0 #36 May 24, 2007 Ok I did it over and moved the knot to the proper place. It takes me ages to get it in the right place, and get each loop the same size. Pics attached. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
