Any Motor Mechanics there?

[Squeak 17]

I have a Mitsubishi wagon, with auto transmission, which has started to behave oddly.

After the cars has been running for a while, when ever I pull up at lights (or Stop signs) the engine cuts out. It runns fine and changes gears no probs it only cuts out when I slow right down to a stop.
any ideas.
It's a V6 Mitsubushi Magna (TS Model)

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Zee 0]

Your Flux Capacitor is discharged - It's not getting the requisite 1.21 Giga Watts. You should be able to get one at any local Auto Parts store...


z

Action©Sports

[Squeak 17]

Quote

Your Flux Capacitor is discharged - It's not getting the requisite 1.21 Giga Watts. You should be able to get one at any local Auto Parts store...


z

thank you for your complete waste of bandwidth

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[NWFlyer 2]

Quote

Quote

Your Flux Capacitor is discharged - It's not getting the requisite 1.21 Giga Watts. You should be able to get one at any local Auto Parts store...


z

thank you for your complete waste of bandwidth

Not a total waste. I laughed.

"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke

[matt1215 0]

Quote

Your Flux Capacitor is discharged - It's not getting the requisite 1.21 Giga Watts. You should be able to get one at any local Auto Parts store

A rod of plutonium should fix that.

[mnealtx 0]

Any bucking or shuddering before it dies?

Does it do the same if you stop in neutral?

If the answers are "yes" and "no", respectively, your torque converter could be seized up.

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[Squeak 17]

Quote

Any bucking or shuddering before it dies?

Does it do the same if you stop in neutral?

If the answers are "yes" and "no", respectively, your torque converter could be seized up.

the answer is no and yes respectively, it does happen in neutral, but there is no shuddering

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Zee 0]

Did you check the Shroeder Valve?

Action©Sports

[mnealtx 0]

Quote

Quote

Any bucking or shuddering before it dies?

Does it do the same if you stop in neutral?

If the answers are "yes" and "no", respectively, your torque converter could be seized up.

the answer is no and yes respectively, it does happen in neutral, but there is no shuddering

I forgot the disclaimer, earlier... "IANAM"

Ok... it does this every time you stop?? A few things that COULD be happening:

Idle air control not working properly

Vacuum leak

Sticking throttle valve or choke plate

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[sundevil777 102]

If the lock-up mechanism in the torque converter is not unlocking like it should at slower speeds, then it will stall like a manual transmission.

You should be able to unconnect the wire leading to it, disabling the lock up feature and see if it changes.

That's probably it if it runs OK when you first start it, and only gives you a problem after you've already been going fast enough to have activated the lock up feature.

People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

[mnealtx 0]

Devil -

He said it does it in neutral, too...wouldn't that rule out the TC?

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[JackC 0]

If it's petrol fuel injected the ECU will cut the fuel on the over-run to give better gas mileage and then switch it on again when the revs get below a certain level. It sounds to me like the fuel isn't getting into the engine after the ECU turns the fuel on again. This is usually caused by the throttle body/air door getting gummed up and sticking. Clean the air door out with carb cleaner and see if this fixes the problem.

There is also a stepper motor on the idle screw that will turn the idle up if the ECU thinks it's too slow and this sometimes gums up and sticks. Clean this while you're at it.

And check for vacuum leaks. With the engine off, pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels harder, then with you foot on the brake, start the engine, the pedal should get sucked down a bit. If it doesn't, you've got an air leak into the brake servo.

Forget the torque converter.