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longtall

main water line

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pressure rated PVC should be fine, use a back flow preventer, check with the local code officials, another great resource are the guys at the commercial/industrial pipe supply companies
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pressure rated PVC should be fine, use a back flow preventer, check with the local code officials, another great resource are the guys at the commercial/industrial pipe supply companies



And a pressure reducing valve, if there isn't already one. City-supplied water comes at high pressure, much higher than most outlets in the home are rated for. They'll be fine for a number of years, but then you start having problems with leaks and breaks. I found this out the hard way.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Actually most municipalities run the water @30-40psi and anything that is carrying high pressure water you are not allowed to tap into they are for distribution over large distances (source to treament facilities usually) and are marked VERY clearly DO NOT TOUCH THEM EVER.

All you will need is to prssure tap the main in the street and use copper 1" ductile tubing in a roll.

a corporation cock if one is needed (old one bad)

and a BBox that is in good working order.

BTW many municipalities do not allow anyone but the Water Dept. and or licensed contractors to do the tap to BB run.

The run from your BB to the house at the meter is usually on the homeowner.

Right now copper is very high, if you are allowed to use HDPE or similar you will be required to run a trace wire taped to the side of the pipe.

Do not use a pressure reducing valve unless you want to run laps in the shower to get wet.

I have never seen someone with too much pressure in their home.

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Most household water devices are designed to work best in the 30-40 psi range, but can handle up to 75psi. The incoming pressure depends on where you are in the water system. If you live on a gravity fed system, pressure will be lower if you live at the top of a hill or higher if at the bottom. Pressure regulators are needed when the incoming pressure is over 75 psi. The water supply lines between the wall valve and fixture or the ballcock in the toilet don't handle the higher pressure well. IIRC, most of the regulators are rated to handle incoming pressure of up to 125-150 psi. When I was working at a hardware store during college, we carried a heavy duty regulator that could handle up to 225 psi. There was a brand new housing development that installed all the new infrastructure including the water system. They had to push the water up a tall hill and needed the extra pressure to get it there. Quite a few contractors wondered why the standard pressure regulator couldn't handle the pressure when they installed their temp water taps.
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No Offense Billy, damn that house must have been pretty old.



Not really, it was built around 1980. The town I live in, pressurizes its water main line around 150-175 psi. :S I had an outdoor spigot spring a leak in the cast-iron body one day. I don't mean a leak at the seams or joints of the parts, it was leaking right through the iron! Now I have a 55 psi PRV on the line between the meter and the house, and the showers I get are fine. Before, they were super strong and I never had the valve on full blast. Now I open it full blast and it's good enough.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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