Twoply 0 #1 June 8, 2007 Who knows the different methods? Need advice please Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RevJim 0 #2 June 8, 2007 QuoteWho knows the different methods? Need advice please Mike you simply need a loop that is as high as the sink. Well, as high as possible inside the island. Keep the drain T as low as possible, and the vent should loop up to as close under the island as possible, then take a 180 and go back down, tying in somewhere in the basement or crawlspace to a true DRY vent pipe. If it's a wet pipe, it won't vent properly.It's your life, live it! Karma RB#684 "Corcho", ASK#60, Muff#3520, NCB#398, NHDZ#4, C-33989, DG#1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twoply 0 #3 June 8, 2007 Sorry, should have indicated the house is slab on grade. No option to tie in any other line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IanHarrop 43 #4 June 8, 2007 I love google.... I searched on Venting kitchen island sink It even has pictures! http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=19540"Where troubles melt like lemon drops, away above the chimney tops, that's where you'll find me" Dorothy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squirrel 0 #5 June 8, 2007 you can use a "loop" system, where you run the drain out to the island, search "chicago loop" in wikipedia.org for the first method. second method is an "air admittance valve" 1. in the cabinet or stem wall, the pipe contiues up about 6 inches, then, makes a u-turn, runs back down, and back under the slab up the exterior wall to vent. 2. some cities allow a one way flapper valve to be placed in the island, above the connection of the sink drain to let air in, but not out, to enable your s-trap to function. i build houses, and use the chicago loop method search "chicago loop" in wikipedia.org for the first method. second method is an "air admittance valve" ________________________________ Where is Darwin when you need him? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RevJim 0 #6 June 8, 2007 QuoteSorry, should have indicated the house is slab on grade. No option to tie in any other line. Um, you got the water lines there, right. Drain? Damn, if I were there it'd be done already. LOL Are you saying no crawlspace? As far up on the toliet line (3" or 4" depending on how your house is plumbed)as you can get will work, but if you have no true dry vents the ony real way to make it work is the loop I said, vented outside by itself.It's your life, live it! Karma RB#684 "Corcho", ASK#60, Muff#3520, NCB#398, NHDZ#4, C-33989, DG#1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RevJim 0 #7 June 8, 2007 Quote 1. in the cabinet or stem wall, the pipe contiues up about 6 inches, then, makes a u-turn, runs back down, and back under the slab up the exterior wall to vent. Yep, required here if a dry vent isn't available to tie in. I guess it does depend on his local codes. It's your life, live it! Karma RB#684 "Corcho", ASK#60, Muff#3520, NCB#398, NHDZ#4, C-33989, DG#1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krip 2 #8 June 8, 2007 check out the library for plumbing books lots of nice pics. Sounds like a std install to me. Slab on grade? to bad it's a remodel. Hows the clean water coming in and the dirty water going out? Maybe a false column on the Island with the vent thru the roof? There still should be a simple solution maybe a special gizmo. Joe the plumber knows he's done it lots of times. Live in a row house? check out the neighbor's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squirrel 0 #9 June 8, 2007 QuoteSorry, should have indicated the house is slab on grade. No option to tie in any other line. well, if you are willing to replace the floor covering, you can alway cut the slab to instal the loop system, back fill, concrete, and instal new flooring...done it, messy, but sometimes necessary. ________________________________ Where is Darwin when you need him? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #10 June 8, 2007 Make sure the house doesn't have post tensioned reinforcement before cutting the slab. Those tendons make a big mess when they get cut. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squirrel 0 #11 June 8, 2007 Quote Make sure the house doesn't have post tensioned reinforcement before cutting the slab. Those tendons make a big mess when they get cut. true, forgot to mention that. we just use grade beams here for slab on grade houses, no post tensioning. ________________________________ Where is Darwin when you need him? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
