Icon134 0 #1 August 23, 2007 So about a week ago my left side rear brake starts grinding like the pad had worn down completely which no suprise to me it had. Now changing the pads and rotors I can do (I've done it before with no problems) but when I removed the calipers it was obvious that something more was going on... the pads were wearing unevenly. The inside pad was worn off completely (thus the lovely grinding sound ) but the outside pad seemed to have relatively normal wear. So upon further inspection it appeared the caliper isn't moving freely (i.e. siezed is probably a good word) and the brake is generating a lot of heat... (mmm... I just love the smell of burning brakes don't you? ) Now I could probably facilitate the repair on my own... but alas the prospect of replacing the caliper (which would require bleeding the brakes and disconnecting that particular brake cylinder) something that I'm not sure I want to do... So accordingly I will be finding a good mechanic and alas I have to listen to them tell me that I shouldn't have done my own auto maintenance and such before they charge me an arm and a leg to fix it... ok, rant over... anyone recommend any good auto repair shops in the Dayton area?Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
warpedskydiver 0 #2 August 23, 2007 Get a new caliper or pair of them, there is nothing to repair on a set of calipers unless the parts are extremely rare. Unless you want to go careening into something one day. You can easily do this job. Make sure you lube the sleeves, and backs of the pads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #3 August 23, 2007 Quote Get a new caliper or pair of them, there is nothing to repair on a set of calipers unless the parts are extremely rare. Unless you want to go careening into something one day. Sorry... that's what I'm thinking when I say "repair"... my bad... Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
warpedskydiver 0 #4 August 23, 2007 NP, save your money for jumps, or you will be like me...no jumps at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CSpenceFLY 1 #5 August 23, 2007 There may be nothing wrong with the caliper. Not sure how yours are designed but the caliper should either slide back and forth in a track of some kind of possibly on a couple of pins. Remove the caliper from it's mounting clean the tracks or pins and lube them with a high temp greese. If the caliper itself were sticking both pads would be gone and that corner would be worn more then the other three. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnMitchell 16 #6 August 23, 2007 What's the year, make and model of the car? You can get a lot better advice that way.Old school calipers were fixed over the rotor and had pistons on both sides to apply even pressure to both pads at once. More modern designs use only one piston, to save money IMO, and have the caliper frame slide in its mount to apply pressure to the non-piston side. Some binding in the sliding motion could be your only problem. Was it the piston or non-piston side that was ground to nothing? Also, calipers can be rebuilt. The parts in a rebuild would be at least the seals, possibly a new piston. Some honing of the piston bore is often required. Most shops just want to sell a new assembly, so don't expect them to offer a rebuild. Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
warpedskydiver 0 #7 August 23, 2007 I was assuming he checked that, and that he found the piston/s did not retract. I may be wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnMitchell 16 #8 August 23, 2007 QuoteI was assuming he checked that, and that he found the piston/s did not retract. I may be wrong. The pistons don't retract unless pushed back fairly hard. But if they don't move under force, then that is a frozen piston, and requires rebuilding or replacement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
warpedskydiver 0 #9 August 23, 2007 QuoteQuoteI was assuming he checked that, and that he found the piston/s did not retract. I may be wrong. The pistons don't retract unless pushed back fairly hard. But if they don't move under force, then that is a frozen piston, and requires rebuilding or replacement. Agreed, that is how they work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #10 August 23, 2007 The car is a 2001 Mazda Protege... The rear brake piston doesn't merely compress by applying pressure like the fronts do it has a 4 mm allen wrench (behind the piston) which is rotated counter clockwise to retract the piston (this is working just fine) The caliper itself isn't sliding freely (which is probably why it was wearing unevenly in the first place) You are probably right that the caliper bracket more or less just needs some High temperature grease though I'm not entirely sure how to apply it... to the siezed component... hrm... now y'all have me thinking... Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zep 0 #11 August 23, 2007 To late for my 50cents worth, Just one thing, lubricant, only use a copper based grease. Gone fishing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DeNReN 0 #12 August 23, 2007 Quote The car is a 2001 Mazda Protege... The rear brake piston doesn't merely compress by applying pressure like the fronts do it has a 4 mm allen wrench (behind the piston) which is rotated counter clockwise to retract the piston (this is working just fine) The caliper itself isn't sliding freely (which is probably why it was wearing unevenly in the first place) You are probably right that the caliper bracket more or less just needs some High temperature grease though I'm not entirely sure how to apply it... to the siezed component... hrm... now y'all have me thinking... hmm..now thats better info so the caliper is not sliding on the "sliders" that connect it to the pad craddle?........very common problem.......the rear upper sliders are fixed to the craddle on that car and the rear floats in tha caliper... make sure both slider pins(fixed and unfixed) are clean(I generally use a grinder mounted wire wheel)....remove and clean all rubber boots....clean out the slider bores in the caliper(or craddle) with a round file and some brake clean or another suitable solvent.. Rust build up between the stainless shims on the craddle and the craddle itself also cause the pads to wear unevenly by jamming the pad in the craddle. carefully remove the shims and clean......the pad seating area may require agressive cleaning or a light cleaning(wire wheel,file,etc.)...the end result will have the pad moving freely in the craddle with the shims installed. DO NOT use a inappropiate lubricant on sliders!!!!!!!! I use a silicone based light grease designed for caliper sliders.....a never sieze compound for areas not coming into contact with rubber...and NO lube where none is required(extra lube only attracts and holds dirt) PS: that covered allen head to allow the rear piston to return is one of the slickest designs on the market....but make sure the emerg, brake lever on the caliper is returning fully to its stop.........if it dosent........dont piss around just get yourself a semi loaded rebuild and be done with it. There are many many more things that you need to look at while doing this job.......but I bore of typing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CSpenceFLY 1 #13 August 23, 2007 Never thought about that. That is what I need to use one my motorhome calipers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SansSuit 1 #14 August 24, 2007 Quote but when I removed the calipers it was obvious that something more was going on... the pads were wearing unevenly. The inside pad was worn off completely (thus the lovely grinding sound ) but the outside pad seemed to have relatively normal wear. Dude, this is a perfectly normal cost-saving feature. Just swap the pads so that the one with material remaining is on the side that was worn down. You get twice the life out of a set of pads this way. It's the same principle as running your tires under inflated so that the outer edges wear first and then over inflating them so that the center gets the wear.Peace, -Dawson. http://www.SansSuit.com The Society for the Advancement of Naked Skydiving Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2fat2fly 0 #15 August 24, 2007 well, if the brakes pull left, knock the alignment out so that it pulls right-then you can drive without touching the wheel, just go ga, brake, gas, brake.. I am not the man. But the man knows my name...and he's worried Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks 0 #16 August 24, 2007 take a picture of the caliper and PM it to me. I will help you... it is easy. I want you to PM it, because I may not check back in here... you need to just lube the "float" part, or "pins" of the floating caliper. very routine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CSpenceFLY 1 #17 August 24, 2007 Hey, there is an echo in here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Broke 0 #18 August 24, 2007 Well like others havce said sounds like a lube problem. Just use enough for a good caoting, but you don't want it all over the placeDivot your source for all things Hillbilly. Anvil Brother 84 SCR 14192 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
