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I'm finally buying myself a bike...

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as in Bicycle... I walked to work this morning... (ok, I walked most of the way... then had a nice retired Army MP/State Trooper give me a ride to the gate)

it was a nice ~1 hour hike (though rather humid this morning) but I think I could make it in about 15-20 minutes riding a bike... (which is about how long it takes to drive)

so I'm going to a bike shop after work to get myself a human propelled two wheeled vehicle to get me to and from work on nice days like today...

any thoughts on what I should consider getting... I haven't bought a bike in a few years...
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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You should get what they call a hybrid bike. You shouldn't need disk brakes.

err, if it took you and hour you're probably right that it will only take about 20 minutes to bike. You could still work up a good sweat doing that. You gots showers at work?

You should be able to get what you need for around $300 or so.
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You should get what they call a hybrid bike. You shouldn't need disk brakes.

err, if it took you and hour you're probably right that it will only take about 20 minutes to bike. You could still work up a good sweat doing that. You gots showers at work?

yes we have showers... I'm not sure what the policy on spandex (padded or otherwise) shorts is... and I'm sure y'all didn't want me to paint that picture for you either...

but ultimately I lean towards going back to a road bike (because I probably won't just use it to ride to work...)
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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Raleigh bikes give you alot more for the money.

Get some tires that have little rolling resistance.

I just got some Senfas Drifters in 26" x1.5" with FPS (Flat Protection System)

The will fit a mountain bike rim and offer really nice riding, unless you are going to be riding off-road always.


Check out the Raleigh 4.0, 4.5, and 5.0

That's a lot of bike for your cash.

And a very comfortable ride as well.

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You need to find out a few things:

- What will you use it for? Just that commute you mentioned, or do you also want to do longer rides on the weekends, or train for something?

- How many miles a week do you plan on doing?

- Whats your budget?

If all you want to do is that 5 mile ride to and from work, then yes, a hybrid would do just fine. Its basically a basic road bike, with a soft geometry (ie not an agressive one), with wider tires (typically 35mm), mountain type handlebars. Sometimes with front suspension
For exemple: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23884&subcategory_ID=3060
Remster

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- What will you use it for? Just that commute you mentioned, or do you also want to do longer rides on the weekends, or train for something?

I'm likely to do longer rides once in a while...
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- How many miles a week do you plan on doing?

I used to ride a bit 50-100 miles a week mixed with running and occaasional swimming up until a few years ago when my bike was stolen.

I doubt I'll do quite that much but generally I lean towards road biking and I like to do it...

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- Whats your budget?

less then $1000
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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but ultimately I lean towards going back to a road bike (because I probably won't just use it to ride to work...)



Ok then...

I bought mine at Performance. I've gotta say, its the best value out there for what I paid. You just cant find a 105 equiped bike for $600 anywhere... But mine was on a big sale. The same model fro this year now goes for $900 http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23529&subcategory_ID=3040

For $900, you could probably find a specialized from last year with 105 main components too.

I was really dissapoined last week when I visited the local Trek store. Most of their low end bikes dont even use 105 on both the front and back... I saw several models with Tiagra up front.

It really comes down to your budget tho. I still think Performance is hard to beat when you find a good sale. Their service is so so, but thats when you take your bike to your small shop.

Thant being said, take a trip to your local ma and pa shop, and see what they have. Its close to the end of the season, so you may be able to get a good deal.

I would stick with 105 components at a minimum for the main drive train (brake/shifters, front and back derailleurs, and cassette; the chain and crank can be something else and often are) if you can afford it. Going up the full 105, or up to Ultegra will bump up your price significantly, with really only a weight saving as a mian advantage.
Remster

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>any thoughts on what I should consider getting

A few suggestions:

See if you can find a bike shop with a fit machine; it's a 100% adjustable frame that they can use to see how well you fit a given geometry. It will help with standard frame fit.

Whatever bike you get make sure it has the following:

-700 wheels that will accept 28+ mm tires (or 26" wheels; those take big tires inherently)

-Lots of braze-ons for water bottle and racks

-Toe clips you like. SPD's are popular, but I use the old fashioned plastic 'clips' so I can use regular shoes. I hate having to carry an extra pair of shoes.

-Deep gearing if you will be climbing hills. Commuting often means carrying more than usual weight.

-I prefer drop handlebars (the curvy kind) because they offer more positions for your hands; you can alternate when your hands get tired. MTB bars (straight) have one position.

-The usual complement of accessories. Lights (front and rear.) For regular road use, a cheaper LED front light is probably adequate; it's more to let other people see you than to light up the road. Get a pump, tire levers and a spare tube to deal with flats. A decent rack with a good set of panniers to carry clothing, soap etc to work (assuming there's a shower there.) You'll also find them useful for shopping.

-Avoid nutted rear axles (only on really cheap bikes.)

For some alternative frames consider:

-The Electra Townie. It's an altered geometry that puts you in a feet-forward position. Cool thing about this bike is that it's considerably more stable and comfortable to sit on, and when you stop you can put your feet flat on the ground. Drawback is that you don't get quite as much power. I got one for an electric bike conversion and liked it a lot (well, before I cut it up, that is!)

-A full recumbent like the Rans Gold Rush or the Linear Limo. They are MUCH more comfortable, safer (lower), faster (less drag) - but they're funny looking and generally pretty expensive.

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congrats!! I just bought a bike a few weeks ago... got a front suspension mountain bike, but i'm gonna guess you're more thinking road bike right?
"Women fake orgasms - men fake whole relationships" – Sharon Stone
"The world is my dropzone" (wise crewdog quote)
"The light dims, until full darkness pierces into the world."-KDM

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I'll difffer from Bill's recommendations....
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-700 wheels that will accept 28+ mm tires (or 26" wheels; those take big tires inherently)


28 mm will really slow you down on the longer rides. If your roads are OK, stick with the standard 23mm. Whatever your bike comes with, upgrade to Continental Gatorskinz for pinch and flat resistance.

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-Lots of braze-ons for water bottle and racks


For bottles, yes. For racks, just a rear would do but skip it if you do long rides. I wear a small backpack on the rare days I need to bring something to work. I drive or take my motorbike once or twice a week to bring my clean clothes. But a rack may make sense for you.

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-Toe clips you like. SPD's are popular, but I use the old fashioned plastic 'clips' so I can use regular shoes. I hate having to carry an extra pair of shoes.


They may be a little more expensive, but Speedplays saved my knees. I was getting quite a bit sore in the right knee with SPDs and the speedplay, with their 25 deg of float are really awesome. Seems most serious riders choose the Look cleat tho.

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-Deep gearing if you will be climbing hills. Commuting often means carrying more than usual weight.


Yep. get a triple if you can.
Remster

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SPD's are popular, but I use the old fashioned plastic 'clips' so I can use regular shoes. I hate having to carry an extra pair of shoes.



What? I thought I was the last one to still use toe-clips!:D
"There are only three things of value: younger women, faster airplanes, and bigger crocodiles" - Arthur Jones.

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>28 mm will really slow you down . . .

Well, they'll slow you down a bit. But they give you a slightly better ride, are a bit more resistant to punctures, and can deal with rougher roads.

To me there are several categories of bike:

Road. Speed is everything. Weight is evil.

Commuter. Strength, carrying ability, reliability and speed are important. Heavier is OK.

Urban. Similar to commuter, but beefier. Often has a front shock for curb jumping and a front disk for more-frequent and more sudden braking.

MTB. Beefy bike with either front or full suspension, intended primarily for off-road usage.

>For racks, just a rear would do but skip it if you do long rides. I wear
>a small backpack on the rare days I need to bring something to work.

I did that for a while but a) gave me backaches and b) the pack always got wet (sweat.) Hence the rack. If you're not going to change or stop on the way home to get stuff you can probably skip it - but they're cheap and not that heavy (under 500 grams.)

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I thought you lived on base?

I do but Wright Patterson AFB is a relatively large installation and there are 3 areas... I live in one area of the base but work in another... and its not exactly close...

Thanks for all the advice guys...
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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I thought you lived on base?

I do but Wright Patterson AFB is a relatively large installation and there are 3 areas... I live in one area of the base but work in another... and its not exactly close...

Thanks for all the advice guys...



I hear ya. I've been to Wright-Patt, it's huge. Got friends up there......


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