Retrofitting chest rings

[RossDagley 0]

I bought my Icon without chest d-rings (was a $200 option). I now want them retro fitted, so I've spoken to Aerodyne and they say its a pretty big job and they're going to do it over the winter for me.

So I got to looking closely at the rig last night and notice the webbing runs from the shoulders, past the handles to the hip rings, where its looped over (through said ring), and stitched to itself and the other webbing going to the container.

I was trying to work out whats involved in fitting the chest rings - presumably the webbing can't just be cut because theres not enough webbing to loop through the new rings, so would they have to replace the entire harness or what?

I also dont know what points in the harness take the most strain, but I'm guessing thats one of them (along with the hip ring area). Would it be tested after being modified, and if so, how? And would the process make that area weaker or stronger?

I'm just interested to learn the process, so I'm grateful for anyone taking the time to reply

• Quote

[davelepka 4]

This a huge waste of time and money. You will need most or all of your harness replaced, and unless you are an eastern european female gymnast, you'll never need your upper harness to move than much.

[AndyMan 7]

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and unless you are an eastern european female gymnast, you'll never need your upper harness to move than much.

I strongly disagree with that. In addition to eastern european female gymnasts, heavier guys also get a lot of value from chest rings. Anybody who questions their value on bigger guys should only see how my rigs fit.

_Am

__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

[RossDagley 0]

I've got a shoulder disability and the rig is uncomfortable when doing several (4+) jumps a day. Its brusing one collarbone quite badly due to the way it sits on my shoulders.

Edit to add: the money isn't an issue - the comfort is!

[mr2mk1g 10]

If you're set on the idea do the sums on selling your current container and buying a new one with chest rings. I wouldn't be surprised if it costs your pretty much the same as having your old container retrofitted... and you get a brand new container for your trouble.

[RossDagley 0]

the money issue is fine (about $300 Aubrey has quoted, plus shipping) and I'm happy with that.

I was just interested in the actual physical procedure

[davelepka 4]

Yeah, they'll have to replace the harness. They'll pick off the container, housings, and stuff, build a new harness in place of the old one.

If you have special needs, make sure they know this. Your existing harness size may not be appropriate with or without chest rings. There may be additional chnages they can make to imporve your situation. Addtional padding? Wider yoke? Longer MLW?

[hookitt 1]

Look under the mud flaps. See that big 4 point stitch? Undo the zigzag below it so you can expose the 4 point then unstitch it. The harness from the hip up needs to be replaced anyway so out comes the Exacto knife. Cut the threads... then Yank them out with needle nose pliers.

Take a good pair of heavy duty scissors and cut the harness webbing at the lower ring... Viola!!!. the harness has been removed.

Somewhere along the line, the cable housings need to be taken out.

Cut the guide rings off the reserve risers, cut off the chest strap thread through. Build a new harness that includes the chest rings and put it in place.

That's it! Piece of cake

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[RossDagley 0]

Thats a good idea - I hadn't thought of that. Maybe they can put a little additional padding on the mudflaps - not so I look retarded preferably, but it might help

Forgive my ignorance - which part of the harness is the yoke? And is the main lift web the complete run of webbing from the hip ring up to the reserve risers?

[RossDagley 0]

Ah - thats the sort of thing i was looking for

So basically, it'll be like a fly without wings - a container without any webbing attached except for the bits from the bottom of the container to the hip rings.

Having never seen how the MLW etc connects to the reserve risers, this is very interesting. Is there anywhere you know of I can see a 'schematic' or something of how this lot connects?

[davelepka 4]

The yoke is the part that goes across your shoulders in the back, more or less the top of the container.

There are range of harness sizes that will fit any one person. Some like it tigher, some loose. There are certain measurements that are there to keep you in the harness, and others that keep the rig centered on your back. By moving these numbers around, you may find a ris that will fit you comfortably all day long.

Harness rings may not be the answer. Consider selling your rig, and staring over from scatch. As it is, you could take a $300 loss on the rig, order a new one, and be even money (if you include the cost of fixing your current rig). See what Avery thinks he can do for you with your current rig, and with a clean sheet.

[hookitt 1]

I forgot to add this part above. The lower 3 point junction will also need to be removed. as well. The laterals are attached to the lift web above the lower ring so the entire harness will be taken off the container.

It's up to the manufacturer if they want to bother re-using the legstraps, or build new ones

I have to go work for a while, but later I can draw up a fairly lame diagram.

The main lift web is the reserve risers. The front riser is the front or your main lift web. It wraps the ring and then becomes the back of the main lift web and the rear riser.

On a harness with chest rings the reserve risers wrap the chest ring instead.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[mjosparky 4]

Quote

I've got a shoulder disability and the rig is uncomfortable when doing several (4+) jumps a day. Its brusing one collarbone quite badly due to the way it sits on my shoulders.

Edit to add: the money isn't an issue - the comfort is!

It is not the lack of chest rings that is causing the bruising, it sounds like your MLW may be to short.

Try jumping with your chest strap lose enough to where the MLW is straight from shoulder to hip and your leg straps a little looser.

Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

[RossDagley 0]

Thanks sparky I'll give it a go when I next jump. I have tried slackening off the chest strap a little, but it didn't help. I'll have to be a bit careful slackening off the leg straps too much, as I'm running 18" risers already because my shoulder problem means those two extra inches make life easier reaching for the toggles/slider - wouldn't want to run into a situation where i cant grab my toggles

I'll give that a try though, it sounds like it might help a little.

[RossDagley 0]

And thanks hookitt, i'm grateful for the insight. I guess the fact I wanted this done just kinda got me thinking, and theres such a wealth of info out there (with people like yourself kind enough to offer their time FOC to educate) its kinda hard to resist asking questions

Thanks again.

[riggermick 7]

Quote

And thanks hookitt, i'm grateful for the insight. I guess the fact I wanted this done just kinda got me thinking, and theres such a wealth of info out there (with people like yourself kind enough to offer their time FOC to educate) its kinda hard to resist asking questions

Thanks again.

Maybe these will help. They are parts of harness diagrams from the Reflex drawing package. They have been edited and annotated to try and provide some clarity to the verbal descriptions already advanced here. One picture is worth 1000 words, so I guess this is at least 2 grands worth, hope it makes sense. Oh BTW most harness construction is similar from manufacturer to the next but there are subtle differences even though they all do the same job.

Mick.

[riggermick 7]

I have to go work for a while, but later I can draw up a fairly lame diagram.

Check out the post further down, do I win the lameness competition? I actually did it old school, real cut and paste and the help of a sharpie.


Mick.