sabre 190 manufactured in 1992 with original slider?

[crotalus01 0]

was told my Sabre i just bought has the original slider. it was manufactured in 1992, apparantly a recall was issued on all sliders for Sabres pre-1996. i have only jump it 3 times (just got it last week). my last opening was a real slammer. however, the pack was with 4 and 4 rolled into the center cell instead of all 9 rolled together. i read somewhere afterwards that quartering the rolls into the center is not a good idea with original Sabres. any suggestions? also will PD replace the slider, or will i have to buy a new one? i am in the middle of moving so i really dont have the cash for a new one at the moment....thanks.

As for me and my house, we will serve the LORD...

[bigway 4]

if it has been recalled, you would think they would replace it. It would have been recalled for a reason.

.Karnage Krew Gear Store
.

[crotalus01 0]

it was recalled after they determined the slider was too small for the canopy (pocket slider?)...however since i just bought the canopy, and it was made 12 years ago, i was wondering if they would still replace the slider or charge me for a new one.
OR if there is anything i can do in packing to give a nice soft opening. apparantly the guy i bought the rig from is super anal about his stuff, and he didnt see a reason to replace the slider...i am 100% certain he did not have openings like i had or he would not have kept jumping that slider/canopy configuration (it fucking HURT).

As for me and my house, we will serve the LORD...

[bigway 4]

my mate had one around that year. It was a 170 though. The only way he could pack it so it was not a hard opening was by flat packing it( roll packing). when i jumped it he would not let me pro pack it, it had to be done by flat pack and he rolled the nose quite tight. It was a fast opening still, just not hard.
I think pd will sort you out with something if you send them an email.
after all it was recalled so probably should not be in the sky.

.Karnage Krew Gear Store
.

[crotalus01 0]

thanks for the advice. i only have 3 jumps on it so far, all 3 PRO packs. the only one that slammed me was when the nose was quartered and tucked into the center. i will try PRO packing and rolling all 9 cells tightly tomorrow and post the result. if that produces slammer openings i will try a flat pack or a psycho pack and see how that does. results posted tomorrow evening....

As for me and my house, we will serve the LORD...

[bigway 4]

whooa, i am not saying pro pack and roll the nose, though it might help. i am saying flat packing. by packing it on the ground, pushing the slider right up and rolling the nose.
though if you pro pack it, maybe you should roll the nose a bit.

.Karnage Krew Gear Store
.

[AggieDave 6]

How about you e-mail and/or call PD on Monday and talk to the folks that know the full story and the full truth instead of guessing with fiction on DZ.com.

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[tbrown 26]

Buy a new slider ($100) or a Spectre ($800 & up). Your choice. Or else go on getting your ass kicked by an out of date canopy/slider configuration that has sent people to the hospital. The choice is yours. This ain't a cheap sport and you only have one spinal column to last your whole life. I can't make up your mind for you.

Your humble servant.....Professor Gravity !

[hookitt 1]

The thing that's not good, is actually stuffing then nose into the center cell. Rolling 4 and 4 toward the center is fine. As you roll it in, you need to make sure the bottom of the nose is rolled in as well. That entails twisting up the A lines. When you S fold the canopy, the slider HAS to be at the slider stops. Before you stow that first rubberband is the last time you can check to see that it's against the stops so check it.

Sabre 190's have an extra brake line. Be Sure the slack is pulled back up toward the canopy. The toggle isn't stowed through that line so don't stow it along with the rest of the excess because it will pull right back out.

The extra lines were put there to help flare the canopy. They were installed seperate so it would pull less of the tail down during opening and let more air blow past.

All that said... call up PD and get a new slider or at least get a rigger to put a pocket on the one you have. Have the trim checked on it as well. The brake lines especially, shorten up many inches after a few hundred jumps and that will also cause the canopy to open quicker.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[riggerrob 643]

I have hundreds of jumps on Sabre 170, 150 & a few on a Sabre 135.
PRO packing is fine, just remember to roll the bejezus out of the nose.
If you roll 4-towards-the-center and 4-towards-the-center, you will get more on-heading openings.
Stuffing the rolled nose inside the center cell was frowned upon a decade ago.
Definitely call P.D. to order a modern slider.
The second option is asking your friendly local rigger to sew on a pocket. Pockets are great for taming first-generation Sabres.

[MWGemini 0]

I just started jumping a Sabre 190 this past weekend, and was taught by a staff packer (who is very experienced and whom I trust) to roll the 4 end cells and stuff them into the center cell. It is the method he uses on every Sabre, and the method I used the one time I packed it myself this weekend. The openings have never been a problem, but I only have a half dozen or so jumps on Sabres, mostly on 210s, and 2 on the 190.

Why is putting the 4 rolled cells into the center a bad thing, and where should they be placed, if not in the center cell?

Thanks,

Mike

[kingbunky 3]

from what i have heard, stuffing the four outer cells from each side into the center cell can damage the center cell as the others are pulled out of it during deployment. what i was told to do is roll the outer cells towards the center and leave them beside the center cell, then push everything ito the pack job a little so that everything is more or less flush. i jump a mid 90's sabre 190 and recently had to replace my slider due to damage. i contacted pd and was told that they do not recommend pocket sliders. i'm not sure of the size of the slider the do recommend, but the model number is LS-190.

"Hang on a sec, the young'uns are throwin' beer cans at a golf cart."
MB4252 TDS699
killing threads since 2001

[crotalus01 0]

wow, lots of ways to pack this potential slammer... i packed it with the nose unrolled this weekend, grabbed all nine cells with the slider and shoved them to the center, made sure the brake lines were in the center, and packed it up. threw out at 5,500 or so, grabbed the rears and looked up...snivel snivel snivel snivel well maybe i should chop this......poof! canopy inflated fully about 3,000. nice soft opening, but not something i would have wanted on a hop-n-pop.
best thing i can say about the Sabre is damn do i love the way it flies and flares. the flare alone makes it worth the risk of a slammer (to me anyways).

As for me and my house, we will serve the LORD...

[gazoo 0]

My Sabre 190(1992) opened brisk, to say the least. It had a pocket slider, I don't know how much it helped, but I wouldn't want to try the original slider. Replacing the brake lines helped a bunch. The openings were at least managable after that.
I tried every packing trick I know to slow it down, even Psycho-packed it a couple of times. No effect. I'm afraid that fast openings are just the nature of the beast.
Whatever you do, DON'T roll and stuff the outer 4 into the center cell. They will tend to stay there and unless you can land a 1 cell, you've got a reserve ride. I was fortunate enough to discover this at 7000ft. It finally opened by 3500 as I was reaching for my handles.
Best advice? Bigger slider, check the trim, pack carefully, and when you get the cash, buy a Safire.