homemade soft links

[BlindBrick 0]

I've heard mentioned on here that there's instructions floating around for making your own soft links. Does anyone know where I can find those?

-Blind

"If you end up in an alligator's jaws, naked, you probably did something to deserve it."

[mattjw916 2]

I seriously hope you are joking... considering a set of Slinks only costs $24.95, why would you want to risk a DIY set? Or is it for a science project or something?

NSCR-2376, SCR-15080

[riggerrob 643]

Your first few sets of homemade "Slinks" will absorb far more than $24.95 of your time.
Far cheaper to leave the job to little ladies in Honduras.
Hee!
Hee!

[diablopilot 2]

Because doing you own rigging is fun, and the sense of acomplishment is cool.

I've built and jumped a harness.

One day I'd really like to build and fly a canopy. Could I just buy one cheaper? Yes. Still want to do it though.

----------------------------------------------
You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

[BlindBrick 0]

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Because doing you own rigging is fun, and the sense of acomplishment is cool.

Exactly.

-Blind

"If you end up in an alligator's jaws, naked, you probably did something to deserve it."

[ZigZag 0]

I have built these softlinks for customers with excellent results. But in the end, if you do not understand the physics and caveats of softlinks, get the commercial version and an expert opinion.

[alan 1]

Takes about 15 minutes to build a set with either the soft tab or mini ring, if you have the materials on hand. Lay out and mark the micro line (725# works fine) for cutting and finger trapping all five at the same time, same goes for the webbing for the soft tabs if you are making that type. Cut the lines and webbing. Finger trap and bar tack or zig zag with a back stitch or over stitch to lock the thread. Fold and sew the tabs through the loops on one end. The soft tab type will use a total of about $4.00 worth of materials at Para Gear prices.

I always have a 15 minute break in a reserve repack to let air settle out of the canopy during the closing portion. It is a good set of rigging skills to stay current on, very similar to re-lining. But then, I'm not a full-time rigger so I guess the guys in a loft have no problem staying current on all of the skills.

alan

[f1shlips 2]

I don't have instructions and I can't describe the technique I know well enough (I need alot of hand movement too).

Ask a local rigger, they should know how.

--
drop zone (drop'zone) n. An incestuous sesspool of broken people. -- Attributed to a whuffo girlfriend.

[f1shlips 2]

Given the amount it cost me to earn my riggers ticket and the fact that I can only do it part time, it would of been cheaper to let someone else keep my rigs in date.

I'd still rather do it myself.

--
drop zone (drop'zone) n. An incestuous sesspool of broken people. -- Attributed to a whuffo girlfriend.

[SkymonkeyONE 4]

Quote

I seriously hope you are joking... considering a set of Slinks only costs $24.95, why would you want to risk a DIY set? Or is it for a science project or something?

Why would he be joking? As previously stated elsewhere in this thread, there are at least four different ways to make soft links and NONE require much skill to make. Jimmy Cazer was making them at least as far back as 1990.

[mattjw916 2]

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Why would he be joking?

At first glance it just seemed dangerous to me, i.e. the potential for a mistake during fabrication could be higher than in a mass-produced and thoroughly tested "production" link such as a Slink. I was just curious.

NSCR-2376, SCR-15080

[okalb 104]

Quote

I seriously hope you are joking... considering a set of Slinks only costs $24.95, why would you want to risk a DIY set? Or is it for a science project or something?

People have been making their own soft links since long before Slinks existed. I have had softlinks since my first rig and slinks have only been around for a few years. They only take a few minutes to make and are no big deal. The only advantage to slinks over the home made ones is that slinks are re-useable. The home made kind need to be cut off when you disconnect the parachute.

Time flies like an arrow....fruit flies like a banana

[beezyshaw 0]

Instructions For Hand-Tied Soft Connector Links

The method of hand-tied soft links has been used for years. While there are several variations in use, the type that we describe here has been successfully used for countless thousands of jumps. Engineering studies and pull-test results have proven this method to be stronger than any commercially available connector link, soft or metal. Pay attention to the instructions and follow them exactly. It is crucial that you have the ability to tie a square knot and a simple overhand knot. The material used is 725 lb. Spectra, exactly like the suspension line on many canopies. It is recommended that an experienced parachute rigger assemble your canopy to the risers.

Check the continuity of your line group. Begin installation by inserting the link material through all the lines and then through the riser.

Repeat the step “through the lines” then “through the riser” three additional times until the link material makes four complete turns. Make sure not to allow the link to form any twists as you form the loops.

Tighten the loops until all slack is removed and the suspension lines are snug against the top of the riser. Check again that no twists are in the connector link loops.

Tie the running ends of the link in a tight square knot. Remember that a square knot is formed by “right over left” then “left over right”.

Now form an overhand knot with the two running ends. Before tightening the knot, get it as close to the square knot as you can. Make sure that there are no twists, then pull the overhand knot as tight as you can get it. A good way to do this is to grasp the two running ends of the line about two inches below the overhand knot with a pair of pliers; hold the riser and lines with your other hand and pull hard. It is imperative that the knot is close to the square knot and that it is very tight.

Scissor-cut the two running ends of the link material about one inch below your overhand knot; then rotate the finished link so the knots are hidden inside the top of the riser.

[alan 1]

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The only advantage to slinks over the home made ones is that slinks are re-useable. The home made kind need to be cut off when you disconnect the parachute.

Some home made soft links need to be cut off. I've been reusing several sets that I made for several years now.

alan

[okalb 104]

You are absolutely right. I thought about it after I posted. If you wanted to, you could make a set of reuseable ones as well. Most people never bothered to make them reuseable though.

Time flies like an arrow....fruit flies like a banana

[billvon 3,110]

>the potential for a mistake during fabrication could be higher than in
>a mass-produced and thoroughly tested "production" link. . .

It's one of those things where you can't even assemble it correctly if you screw up fabrication of it. It's just a fingertrapped and knotted piece of spectra; there's just not that much to screw up.

BTW why do you think that 'production' slinks are thorougly tested?

[beezyshaw 0]

As I shared with Bill at Rantoul, the soft links I market (called the HiPerLink) is a very simple, easy-to-make soft link that is re-usable. I will be happy to share the instructions for making these to anyone interested. Like Bill said before, all it takes is a piece of spectra and a finger trap fid. One note of disclaimer is that for an experienced rigger these are a piece of cake, but for a newbie it might be a bit overwhelming to make this link. So, for the jumper that wants to spend about a dollar for material and has the ability to tie a couple of boy scout knots, the instructions I provided previously in this thread are a great way to go. The advantage to the actual HiPerLink method is that they can be removed and re-installed.