Reflex closing loop

[skydiver30960 0]

Reflexes aren't too common in my neck of the woods but they do show up once in a while. I've actually had really good luck with the pop tops, never had to go back and snug down either of the whopping TWO I've repacked. BUT: last time I did a repack I was thumbing through my packing instructions and couldn't seem to find a schematic for constructing a new closing loop for the Reflex. I'm sure that if I needed to that I could use the old loop as a template but knowing my luck it'd be after a Cypres fire or some Murphy's Law kind of thing like that.

Does anybody know who is handling Reflex's license now that the original manufacturer is out of business? I know they sold the license to somebody when they went belly up.

I need to find out if there is a publication (online, or in a revised packing instruction, or whatever) that offers a schematic of the closing loop.

OR, does anybody have any rule of thumb that they use for these loops?

Danke, Gracias, and Thanks!

Elvisio

[markbaur 0]

http://www.tridenthc.com/closingloop.htm

Mark

[usskydiver 0]

Mark,
Thanks. I have to do a Reflex this afternoon and this data will come in handy!

Tim T.
Team Paraclete

[riggerrob 643]

Somewhere in my loft I have written instructions for building Reflex reserve closing loops.
The concept is similar to building adjustable loops for Racers.
Start with a CLEAN piece of Cypres cord, maybe a yard (meter) long. By CLEAN, I mean zero silicone grease. Any kind of lubricant will cause an adjustable loop to slip under load.
Next you tie the - single strand - Cypres loop to the Cypres washer with the routing and knot specified in the Cypres manual. Set the knot with 40-or-so pounds of tension.
Then you fit the (incomplete) loop to the (composite) pilotchute cap and mark where it disappears down the center grommet.
Pull the loop out, mark it two inches (approx.) below the earlier mark. Fingertrap the free end back up through the two inch section.
It is important that the fingertrapped portion NOT rub on the center grommet. The fingertrapped portion should float freely in the middle of the pilotchute spring.
Tie a loop in the free end.
Install new loop in composite cap and close in the normal manner.

Teardrop Superfly reserve closing loops are made the same way.

[skydiver30960 0]

Mark and riggerrob, thanks for the help! Just what I needed....

Elvisio "knowledge is power! --School House Rocky" rodriguez

[riggerrob 643]

I stand corrected:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Quote

Somewhere in my loft I have written instructions for building Reflex reserve closing loops.
The concept is similar to building adjustable loops for Racers.
Start with a CLEAN piece of Cypres cord, maybe a yard (meter) long. By CLEAN, I mean zero silicone grease. Any kind of lubricant will cause an adjustable loop to slip under load.
Next you tie the - single strand - Cypres loop to the Cypres washer with the routing and knot specified in the Cypres manual. Set the knot with 40-or-so pounds of tension.
Then you fit the (incomplete) loop to the (composite) pilotchute cap and mark where it disappears down the center grommet.
Pull the loop out, mark it ONE AND A HALF INCHES below the earlier mark. Fingertrap the free end back up through the ONE AND A HALF INCH section.
It is important that the fingertrapped portion NOT rub on the center grommet. The fingertrapped portion should float freely in the middle of the pilotchute spring.
Tie a loop in the free end.
Install new loop in composite cap and close in the normal manner.

Teardrop Superfly reserve closing loops are made the same way.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The fingertrap should be 1 1/2 inches long.

[rigging65 0]

No need to speculate about distances, here are the correct lengths. Please note, while there are tolerances (.25" or less) for this construction, the measurements are not "flexible". Because of the way the loop functions, it is essential that the measurements be as near perfect as possible. Failure to comply with the instructions on the page below can lead to a very very bad day.

http://www.tridenthc.com/closingloop.htm

Like the page says, if you have questions, ask...don't guess!

"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

[yoink 321]

just out of intrest (cos I've got a superfly), what could happen if the finger trap is half an inch too long?

[rigging65 0]

Let me try to explain...

Slightly too long (ie - the end of the finger trap is just below the lip of the middle grommet but is too long going towards the pin - but like only an half inch) isn't such a big deal, but more than that and the loop might bottom out before you've actually got the top where you want it. Not good...

Now, if the finger trap is too long (extended out over the edge of the grommet), as you're tightening the loop down you're either pulling "against" the loop and pulling the fibers of the loop apart (causing distortion, and weakening the loop itself), or you're pulling "with" the loop and causing a smooth channel to be formed around the inner piece of the loop (the part you're pulling on) as it passes over the grommet, which can result in slippage of the loop later on...which can, obviously, be only sorta-bad or it can be really-bad.

I hope I've made this clear, it's much easier to show this stuff in person. Suffice it to say, the measurements are important! If you're going to build aftermarket loops, you really need to know what you're doing, which materials to use, and how to properly route the finished loop when you're done!

I really can't stress this enough...DON'T PLAY WITH MAKING THESE TYPE OF LOOPS UNLESS YOU'RE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO DO IT PROPERLY, please....

"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."