toggle attachments

[BASE813 0]

just interested..........

does anyone move their toggle attachment points dependant on differing jumps?

For example:
Do you move your toggle attachment setting when moving from SU / SD?
Do you move your toggle attachment setting for differing altitudes in exit points / LZ’s?
just interested..........

NB: I don’t mean brake settings.

[TomAiello 26]

Yes. I move my toggles up and down for slider position.

I've experimented with lots of different toggle settings on new canopies.

I really prefer having just lines (no loops) at the end of my control lines. That way I can set the toggles myself. Being a short, fat guy, I often find the factory toggle setting on my big canopies is way too long (since they're designed for tall, skinny people who weigh the same but have arms a foot longer).

Also, the "line and knot" is a ton easier to change toggles out than the "permanent sewn loop" system for the end of the line.

I find my toggle settings at the same time I customize my DBS--right when I buy a new canopy.

-- Tom Aiello

Tom@SnakeRiverBASE.com
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[iowa 0]

Could you sew another loop (catseye) above your normal SU loop and use that to go through the toggle hole and then the toggle through the loop.

Would that be quicker and easier to change than the knot? Or would the second loop be too close to the brake setting loop?

Just a thought.

Keith

''Always do sober what you said you would do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.'' - Ernest Hemingway

[TomAiello 26]

Quote

Could you sew another loop (catseye) above your normal SU loop and use that to go through the toggle hole and then the toggle through the loop.

Sure. I used to have a set done up that way. It was kind of weird, but you got used to it.

Quote

Would that be quicker and easier to change than the knot?

Not even close. I've found that the knot is far easier than the "sewn loop" method. If you find the sewn loop quicker, I suspect that you haven't been taught how to do the "knot" method correctly. You don't tie the toggle onto the line, you just use the knot as a movable backstop for a loop that holds the toggle in place.

-- Tom Aiello

Tom@SnakeRiverBASE.com
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[hookitt 1]

Even though I leave my brake settings as they are for slider up and slider down, I do use the knot method to hold the toggles in place. I've adjusted the setting several times to find the one I like.

I'll try and explain it because it's frighteningly simple.

Choose a the toggle setting you prefer, and tie a knot about 2 inches lower. Fold the line in half above the knot, creating a "U" or loop if you will. Push the folded line through the toggle grommet from the top, then run the excess over the tail of the toggle. Pull it tight.

I hope that made sense?

If you choose to raise or lower the toggle setting, just untie and move the knot. It's a whole lot easier than the finger trapped toggle loop.

Make sense?

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[pringles 0]

There are some good pics of this method if you go to the library at consolidated rigging. Go to the ram air manual and on page 10 you will see this set up.

Matt Davies